360 timing

Replicar, I see you are concerned for Ted. But Im not ready to throw the towel in just yet. Lets wait for the compression test and roadtest results first. It might not be the most ideal set-up for the street or for you, but consider that Ted just wants to cruise it around. Im pretty sure that we can make that do-able, with this long-block, and this car, with these parameters.
-Now, Ted you need to back that timing off, PRONTO. I see that you have 45* max timing and 25* idle timing. Doing the math that means you have 20* in the dist.(45-25=20) We are shooting for 34* max so you will have to retard the dist. 45-34=11*. you currently have 25*. So 25 -11=14* Reset the idle timing to 14*, then check the max timing. Adjust as necessary to get the max to 34*. Then note and report at what rpm this max timing first occurs.You may have to rev it to 4000rpm or more, to make sure no additional sneaky degrees are up there.If it doesnt change from 3800 to 4400 that should be high enough.
-It wont idle very good at 14*.Dont worry about that right now. You will have to increase the idle speed to keep it running.We will fix that after the max timing is worked out. Please reread post #5
-.Do you know how to adjust the idle speed? Its the only one screw on the drivers side of the carb that moves the throttle lever.
-That motor shouldnt have any trouble spinning any 14 inch tires, with any convertor, and nearly any ratio SG. Hi-stall TCs take a little getting used to on the street.
-Do you know how to do a stall test?
-Plz provide a 3rd gear Mph to Rpm comparison; eg 60 mph=3000rpm,etc.
-Plz provide the whole tire size. eg. 245/60-R14
-Do you have a hood scoop providing fresh cold air to the carb?
-Do you have a direct drive cooling fan, a 26 inch fully shrouded rad, and all underhood air seals installed(cowl strip and rad-core strip)?