1966 Dodge Dart GT Factory Ride height?
Have you told this to the people how have spent all that money on after market K-member replacements? They may want to know so they can save themselves thousands of dollars.,
40 years ago I tried to set the ride height by the manual. It was time consuming and error prone. I am sure that the factory techs probably figured out a quicker method to set the ride height. Probably something like what I described. It is an obvious solution. Time is money, especially when you are charging by the rate sheet. The faster that you can turn a car around the more money you make.
Most of the K-members sold are because they are shiney and cool,and come with
items that provide more modern performance steering angles,mostly increased caster.
Since most cars of the time,esp. Mopar prided themselves on effortless and isolated
operation of the auto,high caster angles were undesirable to most buyers. That can be
easily remedied w/o tossing the OE system,which brings us to the biggest reason,the
space underneath for headers,big pipes etc. Prob. the biggest decision tipper by far.
I have no problem w/the likes of(now defunct)XV etc.,but look at the field of cars
that Mopar Action's "Green Brick" Valiant laid waste to. No bullshit there bud, the OE
setup is NOT a setback if braced & setup for the task,it WILL get the job done.
I have had no trouble setting the height,if won't stay where it belongs when you
are done by measuring it correctly,why would it if done by "eye"any better?Either it
stays where you put it or not,if not somethings moving,or the LCA pivots were wound
up and started setting as they "gave". On turnplates,w/the cambers close,and the LCA
pivots just backed off enuff to turn,set as I stated. If bushings etc. are beat,tailchasing
ensues,so everything must be up to snuff. As far as dealer techs go,they had tools to
make the job easier,I actually own a number of them. As far as flat rate goes well......
