Choke stove question

Sorry for the long post - want to be clear and get good info. New exhaust manifold. Replaced head gasket in process - broken bolt in head. Everything together and running well. My one very dumb thing and I know I should have checked it before I assembled the engine.

The exhaust manifold and choke stove are different. My choke stove (74) has electricity and the side closest to the firewall fits down into the pocket. My new (different, not actually new) manifold is not open on that side.

Even if I try to cut the choke stove I don't believe it will fit. No, I am not willing to remove the manifolds again even if I run a cable for the choke. My question follows finally. Thank you for reading.

Should I try to find the correct choke stove for my manifold. I assume this would not be electric. Source? Year?

Or should I try to VERY carefully grind the pocket to fit the stove. I believe the rib sticking up is not structural (the original one did not have it). This is of course doing it on the engine in small slow steps. Grinder, drill, Dremel tool.

Anyone with experience with this? Wisdom appreciated.

Assembling the manifolds on the head on my workbench and then lowering them onto the engine with a hoist is a great things by the way. I swear I would almost replace a head gasket every time just because it was sooooo much easier than trying to get those darn things on and off while on the block. Sorry, I know too much reading.

so you got this one? I think you only need to get the correct choke.

Do yourself a very large favour: skip the factory choke thermostat, which is not adjustable and requires a (finicky, failure-prone) choke heat power modulator. Instead, get one of the electric choke kits. Bolts right on (sits atop the exhaust manifold perch, doesn't care what the pocket looks like), fully adjustable, much nicer. Use kit № 1234 to properly hook up to a Holley 1945 carburetor, which is what most '74-up Slant-6s had. Use № 1231 if you're running a Carter BBS or other pre-1974 1bbl. Use № 1232 if you're running a 2bbl "Super Six" setup.

Pishta - that's the one I need - not what I have

Dan - I think that is a great idea. Thank you!

An electric choke did wonders for my old 350 Chevy - my restoration project is a 70 4x4 Chevy truck - mechanical done, time for body work. I bought the Dart as a daily driver and have enjoyed learning. I like to have something I can work on myself. The Mopar world has been a bit of a learning curve and I do appreciate all the help folks have given. The little engine is growing on me. The service manual was also a big help.

74 - 4 door - air - 54K - couple of small dents - looks BRAND NEW. Even had the original hoses and belts!

Now to get those darn clips on the wiper transmission and make that work..........................

Dan is right, but to answer the original question, that rib is not structural, and you can cut it/grind it down to open it up for the thermostat coil. I did, and I actually got it adjusted to work properly for a Carter 2bbl.