1966 Dodge Dart GT Factory Ride height?

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I need help again on my 66 Dart GT 273 restoration. When I adjust my torsion bars, what is the factory ride height? I have P195/70R14 tires on the car. From where to where do I measure this height? I know that this adjustment will change the front end alignment? I am taking it in tomorrow for the final front end alignment. If anyone can help me with this, I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

Old Dart 66
 
There should be a spec in the factory service manual. Don't quote me, but I believe they go off the measurement between the LCA bumpstop and the frame.
 
I take that back. I just looked at my 66 service manual. The spec is the difference between the distance of lowest point of the LCA pivot and the ground and the distance between the lowest point of the lower ball joint and the ground. The spec is 2" for non- "heavy duty" suspension and 2-3/8" for 66 Darts with "heavy-duty" suspension.

Here is the wording from the FSM:

Measure distance from lowest point of one adjusting
blade to floor (Measurement A) and from the
lowest point of steering knuckle arm, on same side
(Measurement B

There is a nice picture in the manual that illustrates what measurements you want. You can get a free copy here:

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109
 
I know the picture says Coronet, but the method is the same for a Dart.

ride%20height_zpseg4sovei.jpg


specs_zpsyii6yvng.jpg
 
mopowers, thanks for the info on the front suspension. I'll certainly use it when I get that far.

My questions are with the rear suspension ride height. My old method of measurement was to measure the height from the florr to the bottom of the rear wheel arch in line with the wheel hub. I just got the '64 Dart GT and it looks like it's down by the a$$ a little. Measurements at centerline fender well with 3/4-full fuel, empty trunk, and 185 75R/13 tires are (L) 19 1/8", (R) 19 5/16". 184K with 95% driver-only use (one owner).

What is the spec for rear ride height and how is it measured?
 
After you give up on the factory procedure.

I just measure from the front k-member bolt to the ground. Equalize the other side and tell the alignment shop not to touch the ride height.

What this measurement should be is a judgement call. I set the ride height so the tire is framed nicely in the wheel well. Which puts the front bumper just below my kneecap. As you can tell, very "factory engineered" and "by the book"
 
After you give up on the factory procedure.

I just measure from the front k-member bolt to the ground. Equalize the other side and tell the alignment shop not to touch the ride height.

What this measurement should be is a judgement call. I set the ride height so the tire is framed nicely in the wheel well. Which puts the front bumper just below my kneecap. As you can tell, very "factory engineered" and "by the book"

Wow,so all the $ chrysler spent on developing the suspension w/ anti-dive,anti-roll,
correct scrub radius,minimal bump-steer,time,track and testing could've been avoided.
If only you'd been there to tell them "just wing it if it looks good".

It is the angular relationship of the lower ball joint center to lower control arm pivot
and the ground you are setting,which dictates how well the car does what it's supposed
to. If the OP had installed killer t-bars and changed align angles for perf.,that'd change
what one might set that angle, but I'm pretty sure he said "restore" in his post.Why'd
one "give up" on the OE procedure?What the manual didn't say was to loosen the LCA
pivot stud nuts,jounce,set height,then jounce-recheck,then tighten the LCA & recheck.
 
Wow,so all the $ chrysler spent on developing the suspension w/ anti-dive,anti-roll,
correct scrub radius,minimal bump-steer,time,track and testing could've been avoided.
If only you'd been there to tell them "just wing it if it looks good".

Have you told this to the people how have spent all that money on after market K-member replacements? They may want to know so they can save themselves thousands of dollars.,

It is the angular relationship of the lower ball joint center to lower control arm pivot
and the ground you are setting,which dictates how well the car does what it's supposed
to. If the OP had installed killer t-bars and changed align angles for perf.,that'd change
what one might set that angle, but I'm pretty sure he said "restore" in his post.Why'd
one "give up" on the OE procedure?What the manual didn't say was to loosen the LCA
pivot stud nuts,jounce,set height,then jounce-recheck,then tighten the LCA & recheck.

40 years ago I tried to set the ride height by the manual. It was time consuming and error prone. I am sure that the factory techs probably figured out a quicker method to set the ride height. Probably something like what I described. It is an obvious solution. Time is money, especially when you are charging by the rate sheet. The faster that you can turn a car around the more money you make.
 
Have you told this to the people how have spent all that money on after market K-member replacements? They may want to know so they can save themselves thousands of dollars.,

40 years ago I tried to set the ride height by the manual. It was time consuming and error prone. I am sure that the factory techs probably figured out a quicker method to set the ride height. Probably something like what I described. It is an obvious solution. Time is money, especially when you are charging by the rate sheet. The faster that you can turn a car around the more money you make.

Most of the K-members sold are because they are shiney and cool,and come with
items that provide more modern performance steering angles,mostly increased caster.
Since most cars of the time,esp. Mopar prided themselves on effortless and isolated
operation of the auto,high caster angles were undesirable to most buyers. That can be
easily remedied w/o tossing the OE system,which brings us to the biggest reason,the
space underneath for headers,big pipes etc. Prob. the biggest decision tipper by far.
I have no problem w/the likes of(now defunct)XV etc.,but look at the field of cars
that Mopar Action's "Green Brick" Valiant laid waste to. No bullshit there bud, the OE
setup is NOT a setback if braced & setup for the task,it WILL get the job done.
I have had no trouble setting the height,if won't stay where it belongs when you
are done by measuring it correctly,why would it if done by "eye"any better?Either it
stays where you put it or not,if not somethings moving,or the LCA pivots were wound
up and started setting as they "gave". On turnplates,w/the cambers close,and the LCA
pivots just backed off enuff to turn,set as I stated. If bushings etc. are beat,tailchasing
ensues,so everything must be up to snuff. As far as dealer techs go,they had tools to
make the job easier,I actually own a number of them. As far as flat rate goes well......
 
mopowers, thanks for the info on the front suspension. I'll certainly use it when I get that far.

My questions are with the rear suspension ride height. My old method of measurement was to measure the height from the florr to the bottom of the rear wheel arch in line with the wheel hub. I just got the '64 Dart GT and it looks like it's down by the a$$ a little. Measurements at centerline fender well with 3/4-full fuel, empty trunk, and 185 75R/13 tires are (L) 19 1/8", (R) 19 5/16". 184K with 95% driver-only use (one owner).

What is the spec for rear ride height and how is it measured?
No rear suspension spec in the service manual. Someplace I did see some body measurement points, not sure what years, that might have been for dealer's reference. Maybe in the Hamtramck Historical library? (alaskan T/A's website).

The rear will move a bit up when the front is adjusted up. At least that's what I have found, although it epend on wt distribution and starting point.
That's a lot of miles on a spring. How close it is to original ride height will depend on the number of cycles whether any were at max or overload. The spring should look fairly flat with trunk empty and 3/4 tank of fuel. Reverse arch is definately not right, but should not have a noticibly positive arch either. Bushings should also be looked at.
 
Glad to help
Here's the page at Hamtramck Historical
http://www.hamtramck-historical.com/PassengerCarBumperHeights-01.shtml
Note that on page two that these are for fully loaded (5 passengers, full fuel) but does not say what options. Also the bumpers are somewhat adjustable and the body has some uh slop. My suggestion is get the chassis/suspension into the factory ride height spec first. Lie on the ground with a flat backed tape measure. Not that hard. Then see where the bumpers are. Make decisions from there.
Another shop manual page posted here.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/7937384/site_id/1
 
Mattax was right: there's actually no specified height in the manual other than the left and right should be within 3/4" of each other.
 
I am getting ready to get my front aligned, and I just think lowering my Dart that far down, it would be on the lower control arm rubber bumper....
 
I know there's a spec and procedure. But oh well........
12898148_1139640716049196_4043956533109596997_o.jpg
 
I just measured from the wheel opening to the ground and then double checked from the control arm down. As long as you get the look you want and the suspension is somewhere in the middle of it's travel you should be good. Lower height will of course be closer to the snubber so watch that gap. If you can bounce the front end and hit the snubbers you will need to give it more adjustment. You might need a shorter tire to get the look you want.
 
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