Air conditioning options?
I cleaned & painted the Volare brackets, but filed away until I change to power steering and perhaps batteries get thinner. Instead, I made custom brackets to mount on the p.s. pad, similar to Syed. I tried to use a York-Sanden adapter (2nd photo), but the slot angles wouldn't allow tightening the belt. Instead, I bought universal Sanden brackets (1st photo, Vintage Air Brackets PN 151015, $48). I cut on my milling machine, using extra for the 2 webs. I used a structural strut from Home Depot for the base, running over to the motor mount w/ a strap from Ace welded on top to form an "L". Trickiest was having to undercut for one bolt, and had to grind a crowsfoot down to tighten it. I also added a thick strap to one w.p. bolt because the 1" vertical between mounting bolts didn't seem enough to stop tangential wobble. A lugnut worked good as a spacer. I found that plated steel (zinc) works best w/ my cheap HF flux-wire welder since the fuming keeps O2 away (don't breath it). I sprayed high-zinc paint on inaccessible surfaces before welding ("weld-thru primer").
Lucky I chose to use the front clutch groove since when I later added a nylon fan it barely cleared the AC clutch (and crank bolt). The fan has just 1" clearance to the radiator, so adding a p.s. crank pulley someday might eliminate the rad fan or change radiators. I had to bend the tranny cooler tubes to clear in the rear. Sanden SD508, SD7H14 & H15 have the same ear spacing, but smaller in "shortie" H12 or H13 (Honda Civics & such), so decide what you want. I used an H14. You can get 1-groove Sandens, but that would move the brackets forward so that the more-critical rear bolt location would need an undercut.
I cleaned & painted the Volare brackets, but filed away until I change to power steering and perhaps batteries get thinner. Instead, I made custom brackets to mount on the p.s. pad, similar to Syed. I tried to use a York-Sanden adapter (2nd photo), but the slot angles wouldn't allow tightening the belt. Instead, I bought universal Sanden brackets (1st photo, Vintage Air Brackets PN 151015, $48). I cut on my milling machine, using extra for the 2 webs. I used a structural strut from Home Depot for the base, running over to the motor mount w/ a strap from Ace welded on top to form an "L". Trickiest was having to undercut for one bolt, and had to grind a crowsfoot down to tighten it. I also added a thick strap to one w.p. bolt because the 1" vertical between mounting bolts didn't seem enough to stop tangential wobble. A lugnut worked good as a spacer. I found that plated steel (zinc) works best w/ my cheap HF flux-wire welder since the fuming keeps O2 away (don't breath it). I sprayed high-zinc paint on inaccessible surfaces before welding ("weld-thru primer").
Lucky I chose to use the front clutch groove since when I later added a nylon fan it barely cleared the AC clutch (and crank bolt). The fan has just 1" clearance to the radiator, so adding a p.s. crank pulley someday might eliminate the rad fan or change radiators. I had to bend the tranny cooler tubes to clear in the rear. Sanden SD508, SD7H14 & H15 have the same ear spacing, but smaller in "shortie" H12 or H13 (Honda Civics & such), so decide what you want. I used an H14. You can get 1-groove Sandens, but that would move the brackets forward so that the more-critical rear bolt location would need an undercut.
