What should I do with my 340 that has been sitting for years.

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coair73x

coair73x

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This 340 is out of my Fathers 1970 Duster 340 4spd. It was pulled in 1990 and had sat ever since in Texas and now at my place in Northern Virginia. My Father decided not to disassemble it and I left it that way in storage for years. It had been oiled at times and turned over maybe 3-4 times. What is the best thing I could do for it now? Oil it and clean up the surface rust that has formed? Disassemble it? I am not sure when I will ever rebuild it. The car has a Mild 360 I had built for it in 91 in it now.

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It should at least be shown some respect, instead of neglecting it into a non usable ball of rust.
 
RustyRatRod said:
It should at least be shown some respect, instead of neglecting it into a non usable ball of rust.
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I totally agree. I am leaning towards disassembling it and cleaning off the rust and getting it oiled down and into a thick plastic bag. I would like to see if I can turn it but with all the rust not sure that is a good idea.
 
coair73x said:
I totally agree. I am leaning towards disassembling it and cleaning off the rust and getting it oiled down and into a thick plastic bag. I would like to see if I can turn it but with all the rust not sure that is a good idea.
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Probably not. I would try and disassemble as is and derust it and do as you say.
 
coair73x said:
I am thinking the pistons will be fun getting out.
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Probably not be too bad. Especially if you remove the ridges and get the rust out of the cylinders you can get to with a dingle berry hone.
 
If it ends up you have troubles, get it on a stand (with a drip tray underneath) and start soaking those cylinders/pistons. Let it sit for a few days or longer (since it sounds like you're in no rush), pivot it so you can soak it again from the top but so it can have a chance to penetrate the other side of the hole. Then, you could rotate it and do the same from the bottom if need be. Everyone has their own penetrator they like to use. (Note: Feel free folks to insert (pun #2) any joke you like here). I only use Kroil.
 
GTXperience said:
If it ends up you have troubles, get it on a stand (with a drip tray underneath) and start soaking those cylinders/pistons. Let it sit for a few days or longer (since it sounds like you're in no rush), pivot it so you can soak it again from the top but so it can have a chance to penetrate the other side of the hole. Then, you could rotate it and do the same from the bottom if need be. Everyone has their own penetrator they like to use. (Note: Feel free folks to insert (pun #2) any joke you like here). I only use Kroil.
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That is a great idea. I will hoist it up and get it on the stand when I have some time and soak. I have seen post about Kroil and will give it a try.
 
That little bit of rust..... meh....... Get the crank out of the way and knock them out through the bottom. Spray the cylinders with wd40 and they will come out.....

I have pounded pistons out of motors that sat opened in the pouring rain for who knows how long and the machine shop I used never had any problems. No matter what you do an oversize piston is in the future anyway....

Good luck,
JW
 
Marvel's stuff,flat works...(diesel fuel works wonders,don't do it if married,or in a long term relationship...) If it were me: I would do the basics: Some mild bowl porting, valve job,fresh GOOD valve job(not the 150 dollar,done in a day junk...Look for someone who insists on good valve guides,not knurling..) The rest ,is on you..(tear down ,budget,what you want it to be...) Best of luck,a wonderful momento...
 
SLOPAR72 said:
That little bit of rust..... meh....... Get the crank out of the way and knock them out through the bottom. Spray the cylinders with wd40 and they will come out.....

I have pounded pistons out of motors that sat opened in the pouring rain for who knows how long and the machine shop I used never had any problems. No matter what you do an oversize piston is in the future anyway....

Good luck,
JW
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They will not come out of the bottom. You might get ONE out.......maybe two, but not the other five or six. Ain't happenin.
 
Glad you are taking care of it. You might as well toss the cam at this point and the lifters too. Pay attention to cleaning out the lifter bores with the minimal amount of material removal.

Putting into plastic is not the best as any moisture in the air will just go into the block as new rust. I'd put a light coat of grease on the bores and lifter bores and in the bearing saddles and any finish machined surface, and ideally put some oil impregnated cloth around it before bagging. (Some oils and greases will attack some plastics too BTW so I am not sure what is the right grease and oil to use. Cosmoline would be ideal but might not be worth the effort.)
 
drown it with fluid film ,wrap in a bag and call it a day.....if you have no intention of ever getting to rebuilding it - just leave it together - otherwise parts get lost, etc......
 
Kroil is good.

50/50 of acetone and ATF is another very effective penetrant if you are a "Bill Nye Science Guy" type. :)
 
A wire wheel on a drill will knock most of that rust out but I would see if you can pop the crank out and leave the rods (with caps on) and pistons in the cylinders then push the pistons down and wire wheel the rust out and pop out the pistons. I have used a chunk of 2x4 and a sledge hammer to tap them out.
 
Sedanman said:
A wire wheel on a drill will knock most of that rust out but I would see if you can pop the crank out and leave the rods (with caps on) and pistons in the cylinders then push the pistons down and wire wheel the rust out and pop out the pistons. I have used a chunk of 2x4 and a sledge hammer to tap them out.
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That's what I would do. Remove the crank (if possible) or at least get it as loose as you can. Then get your dingle ball hone and hit all the cylinders as best you can. Then move each piston down as far as possible, since the majority of rust is usually on the top side they should move down pretty easily. Once you moved as many pistons to the bottom of the bore you can really get the hone in there. I always take my time and get the easiest piston out first. Then the second easiest and so on. If you take your time you'll be able to get the crank out and start working on the real stubborn pistons last.
Of course...soaking always helps!!

treblig
 
I will take some of these ideas into consideration. I would like to keep it together for now. I have a large shop and still getting it organized. I have a spare 340 I found in a 70 Duster 340 in 1990 and that has been disassembled. I need to grease that block also I assume.

If I ever decided I am not interested in restoring the car I will sell everything in one package. For now I want to get it back on the road and back down the 1/4 mile.

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