Magnum engines in A-bdy ???

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dodgedartgt

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Hi all,
I just scored a low miles 5.2 Magnum from a rolled '98 Durango. I plan to install it in my '67 F/B to replace the tired 273.

I intend to keep the serpentine belt set-up, but really want to replace the beer barrel intake. Please give me suggestions for EFI-ready dual plane intakes.

Also, knowing there is a difference in the oil pan to block interface, please tell me what the "common" solutions are for a rear sump oil pan on the Magnum blocks?

I know from the pics Jim Conner sent me, he succeeded in using the '92-93 Dakota exhaust manifolds on his manual steering Cuda. It did require trimming back the steering column tube some for clearance. I also have some of the common "under the drag link" headers, but really want to lower the car and not scrape every bump in the road. TTI's are not currently in the budget...

...a budget which is basically non-existant! LOL Aside from the initial purchase price, tires, and oil and tune-up parts, I doubt that I've got more than $200 in this car since I bought it 18+ years ago.

Looking forward to your suggestions, ideas and experience.

Thnx in advance,
Mike in FL
 
If you are going with multiport EFI you probably do NOT want a dual plane intake. I think ?? M1 comes with bungs, I have not paid much attention.

What are you planning to use for a transmission?
 
I do want to keep all the stock multi-port components, but I do want the drivability of a dual plane. I know the beer barrel intake falls on its face by about 4500 RPM because my DD is a Dakota. IMO, a dual plane is a better all around solution, giving good low end torque, while still pulling good up top. This car is a driver/cruiser. I wouldn't expect to ever top 6000 RPM. The only difference between a carb and MP-EFI is where the fuel is introduced.... I think...

Mike in FL
 
dodgedartgt said:
I do want to keep all the stock multi-port components, but I do want the drivability of a dual plane. ..

Mike in FL
Click to expand...

No, you need to do some research on this. There's a certain amount of stuff out there indicating that a dual plane is NOT what you want on an EFI engine. Remember, you 'air in there' not air/ fuel
 
Okay, thanks.
Can you, or anyone else point me in the right direction of info of regarding single plane vs dual plane?

Mike in FL
 
Did you look at the dyno curve the barrel makes 50 lbs-ft more down low over the air gap, daily driver rpm. No wonder why my truck pulls so hard. And the barrels top end ain't so bad look at the 300 create engine it's done by 4500 rpm, it's more to do with the cam than intake. After looking at that I was just gonna go air gap and carb but I think it's worth the extra effort to go efi barrel.
 
67Dart273 said:
If you are going with multiport EFI you probably do NOT want a dual plane intake. I think ?? M1 comes with bungs, I have not paid much attention.

What are you planning to use for a transmission?
Click to expand...
There was the M1 MPI, but it seems like they're scarce enough anymore that converted carb intakes are more common these days. As 273 said- DP's not necessary. I have a single-plane M1 MPI on a 408 and even with the carb it idled great with loads of bottom end with a 2000 stall and 2.45 gears.
 
I just did this swap. I got a dual plan air gap intake off ebay $150.00 on a tight budget you can't beat them. There's going to be some modifications needed to run the cheaper headers! You must! I repeat, must grind off the ram truck engine mounting points that are on the upper middle of the engine block. The headers will hit and not fit if you don't causing lots of head aches!!! Ask me how I know! So please do yourself a favor and grind them off before you install the engine! It's much,much easier!!! And get the motor mounts from mancini part # SCHA67LA http://www.manciniracing.com/19abv8to34re.html
Will save you time and head ache because they are NOT the same as 273-318 they are 340-360 only and will not interchange!!! Again ask how I know. LOL I learned the hard way! I hope you kept the flex plate from the magnum your going to need it they don't interchange between the magnum and LA's it'll hook up to the neutral balanced 273-318 torque converters but you will need to enlarge one of the torque converter bolt holes to accommodate one being a little off center that is normal for this conversion! But in the end you'll love the change it'll make in your car.
 
Don't know if they are still available, but I have this intake on my 97 Dakota. Best direct bolt on in my opinion.
http://www.manciniracing.com/newmagsinpla.html

The beer barrel is definitely great down low. I know you can massage the runners by cutting them back about an inch to help the top end flow. If you do keep the Beer Barrel, get the hughes aluminum belly pan for the intake. Stops the notorious leak OE pan are known for.
 
dartfever said:
Don't know if they are still available, but I have this intake on my 97 Dakota. Best direct bolt on in my opinion.
http://www.manciniracing.com/newmagsinpla.html

The beer barrel is definitely great down low. I know you can massage the runners by cutting them back about an inch to help the top end flow. If you do keep the Beer Barrel, get the hughes aluminum belly pan for the intake. Stops the notorious leak OE pan are known for.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the M1 is no longer in production. The only options for a EFI intake is the Hughes intake, the 4bbl carb M1(has the bosses for the injectors, just need to be machined out), or a used M1. The used M1s have been going for anywhere from $400- $600 these days though!
 
And for an oil pan, get one for a 70s car with the 360. I bought a new stock replacement(and oil pump pick up tube) for a '75 Dart Sport 360.

5.2 and 5.9 magnums take the LA 360 pan.
 
At this point in time, it appears that Mopar Perf has discontinued ALL intake manifolds for Magnum or LA. Some still say "back order" but even the valve covers are now on BO.

If you want a little more on top, remove the center divider and cut bottom of runners off for extra 500-600 rpm. Other than that, its Hughes Air Gap FI. We should have our new belly pans for kegger soon, just got off water jet table and will be $99 with gaskets, not $150 :D

We have several choices for pans, sounds like you are on a budget, so I would suggest stock 360 w pick up for $125 shipped. Better quality pan than scummit one. pm me if you are interested. We also have FI tank and fuel line kit to make install super easy.
 
magnummopar said:
If you want a little more on top, remove the center divider and cut bottom of runners off for extra 500-600 rpm. Other than that, its Hughes Air Gap FI. We should have our new belly pans for kegger soon, just got off water jet table and will be $99 with gaskets, not $150 :D
Click to expand...
As they were getting rarer, I've more commonly heard of people having had carb intakes converted with the rails.
 
Just my .02 cents. My mag install is not complete yet, so not much help. However I can share that Schumacher Tri-Y headers require zero grinding on the truck engine mount bosses. Bolt right up with room for days.

image.jpeg
 
Oh and further mag swap input... Evan and J from Magnummopar have been awesome to work with. Well worth making a phone call.
 
Thanks Dan! Looks great. Did you check the head to gasket and gasket to header? I have a pair of the same headers uncoated and the ports are completely wrong for the mag heads on mine. Check them out before you install as mine wont seal so I am going to sell them and complete the ones I prototype.
 
Ugh! No I have not checked that out, thanks for the heads up! Guess that is 1st on the agenda tomorrow night.
 
As much fun as it is to install in A body, would suck to have every port leak as soon as you fire it up. Schumacher told me they work on magnums but I think they are for very large ported LA head
 
Dougs Headers fit perfect with no grinding truck mounts. I used a 99 Dakota starter stock unit is mini starter. Works great

IMG_0375.JPG
 
Just did my swap. I did have to grind the truck mount. 360 pan/pickup (mid sump).

Use Mag flex plate, neutral convertor. One hole needs drilled out a bit on flexplate.

Starter...when I used a mini starter, I had to grind a bit on the block so it'd sit flush.
 
Hi! How about TTI headers?? Will they fit? Think Ill go magnum and I would like to keep my almost new TTIs..
Also, what are the differences between -99 and 2003 360? Both are from a Dodge Durango.
 
TTI's should fit fine, my Dougs did. Balancer is different on 2000+ Magnums. The pulley is built in to the harmonic balancer on the newer motors.
 
I think some of the later 2003 blocks they did away with the places to mount the A engine mounts and only have the pads for the Truck Motor mounts. I remember seeing a 2003 RT that did not have the mounts and it was from the factory that way.
 
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