Heaterbox Pipe Passthrough - Reinforce vs Remold

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mammlouk

mammlouk

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Hopefully the title makes sense, but here's a description and picture.

The area of my heater box where the pipes for the heater core pass through is broken. I was able to push the piece back into place, but I am trying to decide whether I should reinforce the cracks with JB-Weld Putty or cut the lower section out and rebuild it out of putty completely instead.
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A bondo fiberglass kit with the mat will fix that up.
You can scuff and go over the entire area and down around that corner, and then cut the holes again.

DSC_0019_1.jpg
 
that new light activated stuff, 5 second fix, might work there. I would use something to fully fill the screw hole and drill a new one.
 
RedFish said:
that new light activated stuff, 5 second fix, might work there. I would use something to fully fill the screw hole and drill a new one.
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I agreed about filling the screw hole and redrilling it.
Never used the photo cure stuff.
 
TrailBeast said:
A bondo fiberglass kit with the mat will fix that up.
You can scuff and go over the entire area and down around that corner, and then cut the holes again.
Click to expand...
I had considered that, but I haven't done any fiberglass before and I'd rather keep this repair simple and get it back in the car. It's freaking cold outside!

RedFish said:
that new light activated stuff, 5 second fix, might work there. I would use something to fully fill the screw hole and drill a new one.
Click to expand...
I was definitely planning to fill and re-drill the hole. I've heard of that UV activated resin, but never used it. Do you have any personal experience with it? I wonder if it would crack or flake during drilling.
 
mammlouk said:
I had considered that, but I haven't done any fiberglass before and I'd rather keep this repair simple and get it back in the car. It's freaking cold outside!
I was definitely planning to fill and re-drill the hole. I've heard of that UV activated resin, but never used it. Do you have any personal experience with it? I wonder if it would crack or flake during drilling.
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I bought the 5 second fix kit at Walmart but haven't opened it yet. I've used Devcon Home 5 minute 2 part epoxy on dang near everything for a lot of years. It has to be dammed with duct tape so it stays where its put while curing and doesn't fully harden for some time if thick. That's why is suggested the other, it's faster.
 
RedFish said:
I bought the 5 second fix kit at Walmart but haven't opened it yet. I've used Devcon Home 5 minute 2 part epoxy on dang near everything for a lot of years. It has to be dammed with duct tape so it stays where its put while curing and doesn't fully harden for some time if thick. That's why is suggested the other, it's faster.
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Gotcha. I've only recently started using JB weld SteelStik and the similar QuikSteel product. They are both 2-part epoxy putty. I used some to even a defect in the top edge of my carburetor's float bowl and also used it to fix some of the other issues on this box (holes from fresh air door being ripped off, broken clip edges). You can see the other heater box repairs in my main project thread. I've been really impressed with it so far. The putty gives plenty of time to mold it into place while maintaining enough structure to support itself.

1965 Dodge Dart 270 Wagon
 
mammlouk said:
It's freaking cold outside!
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OH CRAP, I just noticed you are in CO. :D
Myself I would put duct tape on the back side of it and paste that area over with something like JB quick.
Sets up in 15 min, drillable and won't crack like epoxies.
After the front set you could pull the tape and do that side if you want.

I read all the responses and also have quit a bit of hands on with this kind of stuff already.
This box had the front ripped out where the J hook bracket was. (right above the door)

heater ready.jpg
 
That's gotta be the most beautiful heater box I've ever seen! Looks like you cut your own foam for the restoration. I took the easy way out and bought the kit from Detroit Muscle. Great service from the gal I spoke to on the phone. One of the pieces that came with it was a strip of white poly foam. The instruction sheet says it should be inserted under the metal panel in the back in order to help fill the space and close the gap where the cardboard and metal meet. I can't for the life of me figure out how that could work without blocking the flapper. I didn't take as many pictures as I should have during disassembly, but it doesn't seem like the cardboard will go under the metal. I was planning to just lay down a line of silicone sealant on top of the metal and around the edge of the cardboard. Any hints or tips?
TrailBeast said:
I read all the responses and also have quit a bit of hands on with this kind of stuff already.
This box had the front ripped out where the J hook bracket was. (right above the door)
View attachment 1714994520
Click to expand...
 
mammlouk said:
That's gotta be the most beautiful heater box I've ever seen! Looks like you cut your own foam for the restoration. I took the easy way out and bought the kit from Detroit Muscle. Great service from the gal I spoke to on the phone. One of the pieces that came with it was a strip of white poly foam. The instruction sheet says it should be inserted under the metal panel in the back in order to help fill the space and close the gap where the cardboard and metal meet. I can't for the life of me figure out how that could work without blocking the flapper. I didn't take as many pictures as I should have during disassembly, but it doesn't seem like the cardboard will go under the metal. I was planning to just lay down a line of silicone sealant on top of the metal and around the edge of the cardboard. Any hints or tips?
Click to expand...

Thanks, I figured since I was pulling it for a new core anyway I might as well fix it up.
I think your solution for the cardboard section is perfect.
I used sticky backed foam weatherstrip for all the places that are supposed to seal when doors or flaps move or close.
 
JB weld will fix that easily. My heater box had a broken area on it I fixed 12 years ago. Still is perfect with JB weld, I even took it out recently and looked it over
 
I used JB weld plasti-bond I think its called on my 69 cuda grills. 2 parta epoxy works well and is sandable. Never had to drill it though.

Also repaired a chip/crack on 67 heaterbox. Can't remember the dang name of it. Ill try amd find it out. Worked good.

One thing I learned, those metal clips that hold the halves together. ..make sure you weaken the tension on them before reinstalling. They can very easily break the box.

Nice job Trailbeast!
 
I was going to go with JB-Qwik as suggested by trailbeast, but then I realized it meant another trip to the store and I just didn't have it in me. LoL I went with what I've got on hand, QwikSteel. I used some painters tape from the outside to trace the openings and give myself a guide. Then I tore out the cracked pieces and molded in the qwiksteel. Everything looked good and I got it sanded alright. I thought I would work on putting some other things together while it finished curing.

Well, having 6 kids can make it hard to focus and the short of it is that I put everything back together without putting the foam gasket and plate over the pipes for the heater core. At that point my options were to either leave it off or take everything back apart just to get the stupid plate slid over the pipes and screwed into the box. I chose the former. You can judge me for doing this half-assed. That's okay. Everything is back in the car and I will be warm driving to work this week. When I eventually get around to treating the floors/firewall for rust I will put it back together the right way. I was a little worried when I turned the blower on and heard a terrible squeal. Luckily it turned out to be air-flow related and a couple of adjustments to the flapper control lines cleared it up.

Quick PSA: If you find yourself using QwikSteel epoxy putty don't use thin ntirile gloves. I usually use some heavier disposable gloves from the auto store, but I just grabbed what I had in the pantry. The thin nitrile gloves reacted with the qwiksteel. I could feel the heat from the chemical reaction and when I took the gloves off there was qwiksteel epoxy on my fingers even though there were no visible holes in the gloves.
 
mammlouk said:
I was going to go with JB-Qwik as suggested by trailbeast, but then I realized it meant another trip to the store and I just didn't have it in me. LoL I went with what I've got on hand, QwikSteel. I used some painters tape from the outside to trace the openings and give myself a guide. Then I tore out the cracked pieces and molded in the qwiksteel. Everything looked good and I got it sanded alright. I thought I would work on putting some other things together while it finished curing.

Well, having 6 kids can make it hard to focus and the short of it is that I put everything back together without putting the foam gasket and plate over the pipes for the heater core. At that point my options were to either leave it off or take everything back apart just to get the stupid plate slid over the pipes and screwed into the box. I chose the former. You can judge me for doing this half-assed. That's okay. Everything is back in the car and I will be warm driving to work this week. When I eventually get around to treating the floors/firewall for rust I will put it back together the right way. I was a little worried when I turned the blower on and heard a terrible squeal. Luckily it turned out to be air-flow related and a couple of adjustments to the flapper control lines cleared it up.

Quick PSA: If you find yourself using QwikSteel epoxy putty don't use thin ntirile gloves. I usually use some heavier disposable gloves from the auto store, but I just grabbed what I had in the pantry. The thin nitrile gloves reacted with the qwiksteel. I could feel the heat from the chemical reaction and when I took the gloves off there was qwiksteel epoxy on my fingers even though there were no visible holes in the gloves.
Click to expand...

Short version is you now have heat. :D
Anything is better than being cold.

I decided I'm going to get one of those little electric/ceramic room heaters and mount it up under the dash blowing down.
Then I'll wire it out to the front bumper and put a socket for the electric cord up under the bumper out of sight.
Then on real cold mornings I can plug it in and go back in the house.
The other day all the windows were frozen, and the doors were darn near frozen closed so I took one out and set it on the floor.
10 min later all the windows were defrosted and it was probably 80 or so inside the car.
That made starting the car and warming it up WAY more tolerable when it was freezing A cold out. :D
I park right by an outlet on the house anyway, and I frequently have to take off for stuff in the mornings.

You northern guys might consider something like this if you drive your classic year round like I do.
 
TrailBeast said:
Short version is you now have heat. :D
Anything is better than being cold.

I decided I'm going to get one of those little electric/ceramic room heaters and mount it up under the dash blowing down.
Then I'll wire it out to the front bumper and put a socket for the electric cord up under the bumper out of sight.
Then on real cold mornings I can plug it in and go back in the house.
The other day all the windows were frozen, and the doors were darn near frozen closed so I took one out and set it on the floor.
10 min later all the windows were defrosted and it was probably 80 or so inside the car.
That made starting the car and warming it up WAY more tolerable when it was freezing A cold out. :D
I park right by an outlet on the house anyway, and I frequently have to take off for stuff in the mornings.

You northern guys might consider something like this if you drive your classic year round like I do.
Click to expand...
Definitely not a bad idea. I was considering getting a 12v heater from harbor freight if I couldn't get this one sorted out soon.
12V Auto Heater / Defroster with Light

My recommendation to improve your idea is make sure the heater has analog controls and get a Belkin Wemo switch on your outlet. That way you can plug the car in the night before and turn it on without even leaving the house. If low temperature interferes with the switch you can always cover it with one of those insulated hose bibbs/spigot covers.
 
mammlouk said:
Definitely not a bad idea. I was considering getting a 12v heater from harbor freight if I couldn't get this one sorted out soon.
12V Auto Heater / Defroster with Light

My recommendation to improve your idea is make sure the heater has analog controls and get a Belkin Wemo switch on your outlet. That way you can plug the car in the night before and turn it on without even leaving the house. If low temperature interferes with the switch you can always cover it with one of those insulated hose bibbs/spigot covers.
Click to expand...

We have one of those for our gazebo lights so we can turn them on before we go out and off after we come back to the house.
I was already on that but didn't want to bore will details. :D
 
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