4mulas
Fixem'up
I will do my very best to describe the car and its condition to prevent unnecessary pm's back and forth. Please READ THE WHOLE DESCRIPTION before asking questions. The car is being offered for a limited time so if you think you are interested it would best for you to contact me sooner rather than later.
Seeing if there is any interest in this Real 1970 Dart Swinger 340 4/spd car with matching numbers motor, transmission, fender tag, and VIN at $7000 USD located in western Canada. I would be willing to help ship and work with a buyer for a carrier to pick up the car for a successful buyer but only after funds were received and completely cleared.
The car;
The car had an amateur restoration done in the early 2000's and I am considering to be a project because the resto in my opinion was not done properly. Perhaps one could buy it and just drive it as is but I would not. It is an Original B5 Blue White stripe exterior with B7 Blue deluxe bench seat interior car with the some better than normal options. The fender tag reads as follows:
LM23:
Dodge Dart, Demon
Medium
2 Door Hardtop
H0R: 340 275HP 1-4BBL V8 275hp
1970 Windsor, ONT, CAN
XXXXXX: Sequence Number
E55: 340 cid 4 barrel V8 275hp
D21: 4 Speed Manual Transmission
EB5: Bright Blue Metallic Exterior Color
D2B7: Trim - Luxury, Vinyl Bench Seat, Blue
EB7: Medium Blue Metallic Int. Door Frames
***: Build Date:
XXXXXX: Order Number
EB5: Bright Blue Metallic Top Color
A46: Moulding Package
G33: LH Remote Racing Mirror
J45: Hood Tie Down Pins
M21: Roof Drip Rail Mouldings
M43: Grille Trim Mouldings
M88: Decklid Moulding Treatment
N41: Dual Exhaust
N42: Chrome Exhaust Tips
N85: Tachometer
R11: Radio Solid State AM (2 Watts)
V8W: Transverse Stripes, White
Y07: Built to Canada Specs
END: End of Sales Codes
Starting with the drive train:
The motor is the original numbers matching block with the stamp showing the serial number done in typical Chrysler fashion in that it was double struck, crooked, and the last three digits of the number being difficult to read as they are faint but you can make it out. Once the pad is cleaned of any superficial light surface rust I am sure they will show up much better. Although I can not verify it I am as sure as I can be that the motor was rebuilt at the time of the amateur restoration, as it has crane roller rockers in it, the heads look very clean with the valve cover removed, and by the way it ran when it was running well. That's right when it was running well. The car was running nicely then one day it decided to start running rough. It will start with some nurturing but runs rough and will die. I do not know if this gas, timing, ignition, ballast or electrical issue but I do believe that it should be an easy fix. No reason for it to run well and then just not as it wasn't really bag driven or anything like that. However I make no representations as to it ability to run and what the problem is so consider it however you will. The Engine is equipped with an Edelbrock RPM manifold and an Edelbrock 1405 carburator both of which look new. Does not have the original heads either, it has 1973 open 360 heads with 1.88 intake 1.60 exhaust, casting number 3671587. The car has mopar electronic ignition. The original intake manifold is included but the exhaust manifolds, factory 70 air cleaner, factory valve covers, original radiator (aluminum 4 row in there now), and factory horn are not present or included.
Exhaust is cheap long tube headers with new what looks to be 2 1/2 inch exhaust with crossover pipe and descent mufflers, in what appears to be almost new condition. Full tail pipes which look idiotic as they stick out too far beyond the bumper and have a funny little bend downwards to them after the rear bumper are also present. They could be cutback a little which make them look okay. All of this could be re-used depending on the direction you take the car.
Transmission is the factory numbers matching A833 A body transmission which has been rebuilt with all new synchros, shift bushings and whatever else they did in there and it shifts beautifully, with new clutch and pressure plate. A couple grand including labor was spent for the shop to remove and redo it and reinstall it.
New balanced driveshaft is connected to a 489 case A body diff with drum brakes and stupid 5:13 gears. It came with hyway 2:something gears so purchased to go in the car were, what was said to be 3.55-1 gears but turned out to be 5.13 gears. They gotta go. Also the springs and perches were moved inward to accommodate larger tires and rims for the Large Bolt Pattern Axles. If restoring count on work here to move them back to their proper position.
The manual disc/drum Brakes up front for whatever reason we're converted to Large Bolt Pattern single piston caliper disc brakes from the 73 and up cars. Which appear to be in newish condition and were likely done at the time of the amateur restoration. Rear brakes are also large bolt pattern what I think to be ten inch drums with condition unknown but I assume to be in good to new condition as that's how the fronts are. The brake pedal is high and firm and holds pressure.
The front K-Member is original to the car with the infamous 340 washer welded to the front of it. All new ball joints, tie rod ends with sleeves, idler, and pitman appear to be in place and recently put in. A receipt of the work may be able to be produced to verify this but no guarantees if it can be found at this point. The car has manual steering.
The wheels are mopar ralleyes with the acorn centers, again LBP with BFG TA Rubber at all four corners. Front rims appear to be 5.5 wide with either 205/70r/14 or 215/60r14 tires (can't remember) and the rear rims look to widened to around 7 inches with 245/60r14 tires. Descent tread front and rear. Both front and rear wheels studs are extended, probably because whoever restored the car was gonna drag race it perhaps? you decide.
The interior of the car has everything that was blue now painted silver or black. It currently has mopar buckets of some sort in it not sure of their vintage but look to be 71 or 72 high backs. No guarantees on what they are exactly but they are comfy. Rear is a black bench. Headliner was changed to black at one point and looks to be in very nice condition. IE: they changed everything that was blue to black and painted everything that was blue silver. It still has its proper ralley dash that houses the factory tach, not sure if it works or not. The plastic on the speedo side is scratched and would need attention. Carpet, again, now black is in descent shape, don't know if it's a quality replacement or not or if it was made for a for speed car or not. It is what it is. If I was to restore the car I would want to return everything to factory B7 blue including sourcing the proper bench seat etc. if this is what you would do too count on buying and replacing the carpet, front seat, front and rear seat skins, headliner, door panels, and paining everything back to its proper color. Restoring the instrument cluster would be in order too as would fixing the factory dash and sourcing a proper thumb wheel radio to replace the stupid cassette deck that someone cut the dash to stuff in place (typical). The dash pad is okay shape.
The Body, and to me, the bad:
The car is Chevy silver or something like that, again, done by the amateur restorer. It actually shines quite well but shows Knicks here and there and has some wave like dent in the drivers rear quarter down low behind the wheel from a boat trailer in a garage or something like that so I was told.
So, this is where any resto attempts in my opinion failed. The car had 3/4 quarters hung and was done poorly. The outer wheel houses had rust and they were not addressed or changed and will need replacement, the quarters aren't even attached to the outer wheel house's as the restorer simply removed the rust on the outer wheel house and did nothing further. At an initial glance I think see rust in the inner wheel house and if I was restoring the car would replace those also. To summarize here, I think the car needs new inner, new outer wheel houses and new quarters.
The car will need a new trunk floor, trunk floor extensions, and drop offs too. The amateur restorer put a fuel cell in the trunk which is why you will need the trunk floor. He cut out a portion the spare tire well to fit it in and the whole thing is somewhat of an abortion. It needs drop offs and extensions as they were home made and look crappy and likely were not done right.
Count on a whole floor replacement too. Again much evidence of at least to or three home made patches just laid over the affected rusted areas, and just tac welded in place. Upon opening it up and looking at it I would assume it would be worse rather than better so count on the whole floor needing replacement.
The doors look fine, lower seams are tight, but who knows what they may look like after paint is stripped off them.
The inner fenders had work done to them by the typical hinge areas up top and show signs of rust all along the top edge where the fender attaches. This if restoring the car proper will need work and or replacement. You decide.
The hood has had. A plate riveted to it that hold the loop that goes into the latch. My guess is that this area was rusty or cracked which is why the rivet job exists today. The hood where it bolts onto the hinge on the drivers side needs attention too. The nut that slides in the hood is stripped and needs to be replace, tapped or however you would decide to fix it to get a bolt to take to it again. Probably if you replace the hood that will take care of that.
Fenders appear Okay and may have been changed when the resto was done. I'm not sure.
I could not see vin numbers in the rad support, perhaps it has had work on it I don't know. I also did not look for numbers in the trunk lip areas either.
There is much evidence of the blue colors from when new and the four other proof items (motor, Trans, fender tag, vin with proper roset rivets) so that is good enough for me as to proof of it being an original 340 car.
Glass and chrome all present, looks okay for age, but if restoring I'm sure you'd rechrome and polish and fix where required etc...
Not sure if a build sheet is anywhere in the car but probably not seeing as the carpet, seats both front and rear, headliner have been changed.
I will post pictures after I post this. Either as an edit to this post or an additional post below this one. The pictures that are posted will be it. Please don't ask for more as I have described this car in great detail so there will be no surprises.
Again this will be offered for a limited time as there is a plan B for the car, so if you're interested act quicker as opposed to later. I may not get back to you immediately when you pm me but will get back to you I assure you. Replies will be replied to in order received, I just prefer to reply to as many at one time as opposed to when they are actually received sporatically.
This would make a nice car when restored to it original beauty as when delivered from day one with above average options as compared to the real plain janer 340 swingers that exist.
Thanks for looking and have a good day.
Seeing if there is any interest in this Real 1970 Dart Swinger 340 4/spd car with matching numbers motor, transmission, fender tag, and VIN at $7000 USD located in western Canada. I would be willing to help ship and work with a buyer for a carrier to pick up the car for a successful buyer but only after funds were received and completely cleared.
The car;
The car had an amateur restoration done in the early 2000's and I am considering to be a project because the resto in my opinion was not done properly. Perhaps one could buy it and just drive it as is but I would not. It is an Original B5 Blue White stripe exterior with B7 Blue deluxe bench seat interior car with the some better than normal options. The fender tag reads as follows:
LM23:
Dodge Dart, Demon
Medium
2 Door Hardtop
H0R: 340 275HP 1-4BBL V8 275hp
1970 Windsor, ONT, CAN
XXXXXX: Sequence Number
E55: 340 cid 4 barrel V8 275hp
D21: 4 Speed Manual Transmission
EB5: Bright Blue Metallic Exterior Color
D2B7: Trim - Luxury, Vinyl Bench Seat, Blue
EB7: Medium Blue Metallic Int. Door Frames
***: Build Date:
XXXXXX: Order Number
EB5: Bright Blue Metallic Top Color
A46: Moulding Package
G33: LH Remote Racing Mirror
J45: Hood Tie Down Pins
M21: Roof Drip Rail Mouldings
M43: Grille Trim Mouldings
M88: Decklid Moulding Treatment
N41: Dual Exhaust
N42: Chrome Exhaust Tips
N85: Tachometer
R11: Radio Solid State AM (2 Watts)
V8W: Transverse Stripes, White
Y07: Built to Canada Specs
END: End of Sales Codes
Starting with the drive train:
The motor is the original numbers matching block with the stamp showing the serial number done in typical Chrysler fashion in that it was double struck, crooked, and the last three digits of the number being difficult to read as they are faint but you can make it out. Once the pad is cleaned of any superficial light surface rust I am sure they will show up much better. Although I can not verify it I am as sure as I can be that the motor was rebuilt at the time of the amateur restoration, as it has crane roller rockers in it, the heads look very clean with the valve cover removed, and by the way it ran when it was running well. That's right when it was running well. The car was running nicely then one day it decided to start running rough. It will start with some nurturing but runs rough and will die. I do not know if this gas, timing, ignition, ballast or electrical issue but I do believe that it should be an easy fix. No reason for it to run well and then just not as it wasn't really bag driven or anything like that. However I make no representations as to it ability to run and what the problem is so consider it however you will. The Engine is equipped with an Edelbrock RPM manifold and an Edelbrock 1405 carburator both of which look new. Does not have the original heads either, it has 1973 open 360 heads with 1.88 intake 1.60 exhaust, casting number 3671587. The car has mopar electronic ignition. The original intake manifold is included but the exhaust manifolds, factory 70 air cleaner, factory valve covers, original radiator (aluminum 4 row in there now), and factory horn are not present or included.
Exhaust is cheap long tube headers with new what looks to be 2 1/2 inch exhaust with crossover pipe and descent mufflers, in what appears to be almost new condition. Full tail pipes which look idiotic as they stick out too far beyond the bumper and have a funny little bend downwards to them after the rear bumper are also present. They could be cutback a little which make them look okay. All of this could be re-used depending on the direction you take the car.
Transmission is the factory numbers matching A833 A body transmission which has been rebuilt with all new synchros, shift bushings and whatever else they did in there and it shifts beautifully, with new clutch and pressure plate. A couple grand including labor was spent for the shop to remove and redo it and reinstall it.
New balanced driveshaft is connected to a 489 case A body diff with drum brakes and stupid 5:13 gears. It came with hyway 2:something gears so purchased to go in the car were, what was said to be 3.55-1 gears but turned out to be 5.13 gears. They gotta go. Also the springs and perches were moved inward to accommodate larger tires and rims for the Large Bolt Pattern Axles. If restoring count on work here to move them back to their proper position.
The manual disc/drum Brakes up front for whatever reason we're converted to Large Bolt Pattern single piston caliper disc brakes from the 73 and up cars. Which appear to be in newish condition and were likely done at the time of the amateur restoration. Rear brakes are also large bolt pattern what I think to be ten inch drums with condition unknown but I assume to be in good to new condition as that's how the fronts are. The brake pedal is high and firm and holds pressure.
The front K-Member is original to the car with the infamous 340 washer welded to the front of it. All new ball joints, tie rod ends with sleeves, idler, and pitman appear to be in place and recently put in. A receipt of the work may be able to be produced to verify this but no guarantees if it can be found at this point. The car has manual steering.
The wheels are mopar ralleyes with the acorn centers, again LBP with BFG TA Rubber at all four corners. Front rims appear to be 5.5 wide with either 205/70r/14 or 215/60r14 tires (can't remember) and the rear rims look to widened to around 7 inches with 245/60r14 tires. Descent tread front and rear. Both front and rear wheels studs are extended, probably because whoever restored the car was gonna drag race it perhaps? you decide.
The interior of the car has everything that was blue now painted silver or black. It currently has mopar buckets of some sort in it not sure of their vintage but look to be 71 or 72 high backs. No guarantees on what they are exactly but they are comfy. Rear is a black bench. Headliner was changed to black at one point and looks to be in very nice condition. IE: they changed everything that was blue to black and painted everything that was blue silver. It still has its proper ralley dash that houses the factory tach, not sure if it works or not. The plastic on the speedo side is scratched and would need attention. Carpet, again, now black is in descent shape, don't know if it's a quality replacement or not or if it was made for a for speed car or not. It is what it is. If I was to restore the car I would want to return everything to factory B7 blue including sourcing the proper bench seat etc. if this is what you would do too count on buying and replacing the carpet, front seat, front and rear seat skins, headliner, door panels, and paining everything back to its proper color. Restoring the instrument cluster would be in order too as would fixing the factory dash and sourcing a proper thumb wheel radio to replace the stupid cassette deck that someone cut the dash to stuff in place (typical). The dash pad is okay shape.
The Body, and to me, the bad:
The car is Chevy silver or something like that, again, done by the amateur restorer. It actually shines quite well but shows Knicks here and there and has some wave like dent in the drivers rear quarter down low behind the wheel from a boat trailer in a garage or something like that so I was told.
So, this is where any resto attempts in my opinion failed. The car had 3/4 quarters hung and was done poorly. The outer wheel houses had rust and they were not addressed or changed and will need replacement, the quarters aren't even attached to the outer wheel house's as the restorer simply removed the rust on the outer wheel house and did nothing further. At an initial glance I think see rust in the inner wheel house and if I was restoring the car would replace those also. To summarize here, I think the car needs new inner, new outer wheel houses and new quarters.
The car will need a new trunk floor, trunk floor extensions, and drop offs too. The amateur restorer put a fuel cell in the trunk which is why you will need the trunk floor. He cut out a portion the spare tire well to fit it in and the whole thing is somewhat of an abortion. It needs drop offs and extensions as they were home made and look crappy and likely were not done right.
Count on a whole floor replacement too. Again much evidence of at least to or three home made patches just laid over the affected rusted areas, and just tac welded in place. Upon opening it up and looking at it I would assume it would be worse rather than better so count on the whole floor needing replacement.
The doors look fine, lower seams are tight, but who knows what they may look like after paint is stripped off them.
The inner fenders had work done to them by the typical hinge areas up top and show signs of rust all along the top edge where the fender attaches. This if restoring the car proper will need work and or replacement. You decide.
The hood has had. A plate riveted to it that hold the loop that goes into the latch. My guess is that this area was rusty or cracked which is why the rivet job exists today. The hood where it bolts onto the hinge on the drivers side needs attention too. The nut that slides in the hood is stripped and needs to be replace, tapped or however you would decide to fix it to get a bolt to take to it again. Probably if you replace the hood that will take care of that.
Fenders appear Okay and may have been changed when the resto was done. I'm not sure.
I could not see vin numbers in the rad support, perhaps it has had work on it I don't know. I also did not look for numbers in the trunk lip areas either.
There is much evidence of the blue colors from when new and the four other proof items (motor, Trans, fender tag, vin with proper roset rivets) so that is good enough for me as to proof of it being an original 340 car.
Glass and chrome all present, looks okay for age, but if restoring I'm sure you'd rechrome and polish and fix where required etc...
Not sure if a build sheet is anywhere in the car but probably not seeing as the carpet, seats both front and rear, headliner have been changed.
I will post pictures after I post this. Either as an edit to this post or an additional post below this one. The pictures that are posted will be it. Please don't ask for more as I have described this car in great detail so there will be no surprises.
Again this will be offered for a limited time as there is a plan B for the car, so if you're interested act quicker as opposed to later. I may not get back to you immediately when you pm me but will get back to you I assure you. Replies will be replied to in order received, I just prefer to reply to as many at one time as opposed to when they are actually received sporatically.
This would make a nice car when restored to it original beauty as when delivered from day one with above average options as compared to the real plain janer 340 swingers that exist.
Thanks for looking and have a good day.
Last edited:
