Help! Wiper pivot stud broken

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wizardal

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So I just rebuilt all the wiper stuff in the car and go to install and find the driver side wiper pivot stud is broken. I bought the car disassembled so didn't know until now. There is less than 1/4 inch left in the cab. The stud is located in the plenum and looks like the 2 studs are connected by a half moon plate. Has anyone ever had to replace one of these? Is it a threaded stud or like a wheel stud and how do you remove? Twist and turn or knock it out? Thanks, Al
 
ouch - I imagine getting that out of there is really going to "fun"... personally, I think I would try to cut it off flush and then drill it out - IF you can get up in there. Then replace it with a bolt..???
 
You can remove the stud by pounding it out from the back side. Grind a small amount off on the back side then hammer out with a punch.

I recently removed all the studs out of both wiper pivots and the motor to where it connects the linkage. I drilled them out and tapped them, and replaced them all with bolts I JBwelded in place. Then I'm using nylon bushings, washers, and nylocks to hold in place, instead of the crappy plastic bushings. I'll try and take pics tomorrow for you. I'd recommend doing it right and be done with it.
 
So we're talking the threaded studs to attach pivots to cowl.
I haven't came to this hurdle but... I do have a bare bones sample here. Happy to have a look in a few minutes. Is your dash out or are you working from underneath? That will make a difference.
 
Hmmm 2 button head studs pressed into a horse shoe shaped plate ( That to beef up the weak sheet metal ). Just 2 tiny spot welds, 1 north east of left stud at perimeter of horse shoe plate, the other south west of right stud at perimeter of plate. If we go to banging hard on the stud, sheet metal distorts. Spot weld(s) fail? Cause hole in sheet metal that the pivot base seal doesn't cover. The left weld wouldn't but the right weld just might.
There's just nothing really sound enough to beat on so I wouldn't go there with a hammer.
I would first drill out the stud. Center drill then 1/8 drill, then 1/4 drill.
Then I would use a small square file ( little hobby file kit from Harbor freight comes in handy ) to make that a square hole that accepts the square shoulder of a 1/4-20 x 1 or 1.25 carriage bolt. I might consider a push on keeper underneath too but that could interfere with the pivots mounting.
A gob of silicone under the head would hold the bolt in place and prevent a possible leak too.
Good luck which ever way you go at it.
 
Still thinking about this... We have the one good stud. and we have the center hole to utilize. So we might go to some effort to fashion a good hold down underneath the horse shoe shaped piece. Then we could attempt to knock the broken stud out.
How they attached the studs to that plate is the unknown. Stud has a large flat button head but I don't feel a weld on it. Stud might have a knurled section like a wheel stud but the plate is sooo thin, there wouldn't be much hold. maybe it has a square section and staked into the plate in the same manner that they staked a similar button head stud in a thin fiber board placed on the back of the thermal gauges. We just don't know.
In the grand scheme of things, finding a replacement donor stud would be like hunting hens teeth. We still need to hand broach a square hole for a alternate stud ( carriage bolt ).
So all the above is just bypassing the drilling.
Where is the guy with a scrap cowl on his bone pile ?
 
Or, If the remains of the broken stud is still usable, and If the hole in the wiper pivot post can be drilled to 7/16, 3/8 would be minimum... Lets go to the lathe. 1/4-20 threads full to 3/8 deep inside a piece of round stock about 1.375 long. Other end turned down and threaded 1/4-20 X .750 and we've created a stud extension. The larger diameter could extend through the now larger hole in the pivot post with washers over it so the nut tightens the pivot post in place properly.
I don't imagine this slightly longer stud interfering with wiper pivot movement but I would need to double check that. Maybe a full 3/4 of 1/4-20 threads isn't needed. Actually only full nut is req'd.
 
I have had this problem. Cut it off flush, then drill out the center of the mushroomed head that held in the original stud and tap it to the same thread size as the original stud. Cut the shank off a bolt thats the correct thread to make it into a long stud, Thread in the stud to the correct length to match the other one with JB weld on the end threads going in to secure it.
 
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Here is what it looks like from the other side

14851912387161676401164.jpg
 
whitepunkonnitro said:
Here is what it looks like from the other side

View attachment 1715010709
Click to expand...
Perfect pic exactly. Which is why you drill n tap the center for the same size stud. Then make a bolt into a stud and thread it in with JB weld. I have fixed broken seat track studs this way, but tack welded on the other side. This cant be done inside the cowl so use jb weld to lock the stud in place.
 
once you have it drilled out you might be able to slide the end of a threaded rod up into there and use a nylock nut to set it.. the hard part will be tightening the business end when you go to install the pivot - but, if you use a regular nut with a lock washer you should be able to get it tight enough - you don't need a lot of torque on there as it is cast aluminum - maybe some red or blue locktite on the rod for the regular nut...
 
Thanks for the advise guys. The picture that Tony presented is exactly what I am facing. Will probably wait until the weekend to tackle it. I am thinking that I could maybe get the correct size bolt and put it in from the pivot shaft hole after the stud is drilled out (it will be tricky) then tack weld on the bottom side of the cowl. Should only be a once is lifetime repair.
 
wizardal said:
Thanks for the advise guys. The picture that Tony presented is exactly what I am facing. Will probably wait until the weekend to tackle it. I am thinking that I could maybe get the correct size bolt and put it in from the pivot shaft hole after the stud is drilled out (it will be tricky) then tack weld on the bottom side of the cowl. Should only be a once is lifetime repair.
Click to expand...
be careful - IIRC the base sits flush to the dash - anything in the way will cause it skew and interfere with proper operation
 
I replaced one of these once by drilling out the spot welds, pushing the whole assembly up, and fishing it over to the vent opening in the cowl with a magnet. Reverse to install.
Took a look little time, but it was the most effective repair I could think of.
 
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