Hellcat power in a convertible
- Thread starter jwclaus85
- Start date
-
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
The performance cars from the factory came with boxed in sections and extra supports, but these can be bought as kits and welded in.
Ever try to push a chain instead of dragging it?
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I have a '68 convertible with an EFI'd 408" Magnum that puts out a touch over 500 hp. It has a full US Cartool chassis stiffening kit in it including subframe connectors and a four point roll bar. I did have a triangulated Monte Carlo bar in it, but I had to remove it when I swapped out the Slant 6.
The chassis handles the power without any issues. It hooks up hard and launches straight. I'm sure not much would change with an extra 100 hp, but cars start to do strange things when the power passes that point and creeps up past the 700 hp mark. My other Mopar taught me that.
65Val
Average Length Member
THIS^^^^^^^
1968FormulaS340
Well-Known Member
someone had a picture of a cut open rocker on an a-body convertible. It looked like it had a 1/4" thick reinforcement running through it.
It was posted here many years ago.
It was posted here many years ago.
ChrisN68
Well-Known Member
This is what it looks like inside the rocker, if it helps...
1GTMOPAR
65 DART GT CONV
My 65 Dart conv. I'm building has 630hp 580' lbs. I added forward strut supports, frame connectors it's got RMS suspension. I went through and braced whatever I could to help rigidity. The forward strut supports really help tying the cowl to the forward frame rails.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I used all US Cartool parts to brace the car. First were the subframe connectors. They made a huge difference, but did nothing for the cowl shake on rough roads.
Then I added the chassis stiffening kit that ties the front frame rails together and braces the shock towers. I also welded the shock towers solidly to the inner fenders to strengthen the factory spot welds that were tearing the inner fender. That reduced 70% of the cowl shake and improved the front end rigidity.
Finally, I added a triangular Monte Carlo bar to the engine compartment. That eliminated the remaining cowl shake. I eventually had to remove the bar, as it was made to clear the Slant 6 I had in the car. I now run a stroked 5.9 Magnum and need to make a new bar.
I am also going to add a V-shaped door bar to tie the rollbar, to the door sill, to the under fender bracing while still leaving the car easy to get in and out of.
-
