69 fb 340 barracuda freeze plugs/replace ??

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jazak5

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took the started out to do some linkage mods
looks like I might need to replace the freeze plugs on the driver-side
how hard is it with the motor in car ???
any special tools ??
brass or steel ??

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Pull the engine, replace the plugs, (steel or brass) clean the engine, replace necessary gaskets and seals, paint the correct color and reinstall. (all depending on how new or old your engine is) For best results you can paint the steel plugs and leave the brass ones natural after painting the block. tmm
 
I agree with 4spd. I would also go with the brass.The ones on the rear of the block have gotten me in the past.
 
That one rotted away for a reason, chances are the rest of the them aren't in great shape either. If you can pull the engine out to do them all, then great but that one looks accessable to replace without pulling the engine out though. In the mean time you can put a rubber expansion in it to get you by for a while, these are available at any good parts store.
While that plug is out you'll want to flush all the rust and gunk out of the block.
A rubber plug wouldn't really be considered a permanent fix but would probably last the life of the car. You can use either steel or brass at this point because chances are the coolant wont be left to rot in that engine for another 40 years. These cars get pampered now,they don't get treated like disposable daily drivers like they once were.
 
I flushed and poked for a hour or so to remove the casting sand from the bottom of the water jackets. If you pull a single plug, you will be amazed at how much sludge there is in there.
 
That one rotted away for a reason, chances are the rest of the them aren't in great shape either. If you can pull the engine out to do them all, then great but that one looks accessable to replace without pulling the engine out though. In the mean time you can put a rubber expansion in it to get you by for a while, these are available at any good parts store.
While that plug is out you'll want to flush all the rust and gunk out of the block.
A rubber plug wouldn't really be considered a permanent fix but would probably last the life of the car. You can use either steel or brass at this point because chances are the coolant wont be left to rot in that engine for another 40 years. These cars get pampered now,they don't get treated like disposable daily drivers like they once were.
ok thanks//had plans to pull engine in the fall/just not before trying to enjoy it for the summer
 
ok thanks//had plans to pull engine in the fall/just not before trying to enjoy it for the summer
Replace the nasty one you are concerned about but be careful when you drive. Too much hot rodding will blow a weak plug out easily. I blew one out on my Super Bee and it overheated in less than a minuite.
 
I'd pull the motor and replace all the plugs (dont forget the ones in the heads). Those little monsters in the heads bit me once, when one on the back popped during a 1-2-3 Power Shift in my 340 powered '74 Twister. I had just painted the car and I was not thrilled about the thought of yanking the motor, so I put a temporary rubber expansion plug in the head.

Even worse, I noticed that my 6-71 Blown 340 Duster would occasionally drip 1 or 2 drops of antifreeze from the bellhousing when I parked it. I knew what it was (rear plugs behind the flexplate), but I didn't want to pull the transmission until I had the 4-speed ready to install in place of the 727... It didn't agree with my schedule, it popped, along with the one thats shielded by the driver's side motor mount.
 
Put a rubber expansion plug in for now, if installed properly it will never leak till the motor needs rebuild. Millions of cars with block heaters, same thing sorta.
 
Back in the early 70s, my 68 Roadrunner started to rust out freeze plugs in a short period of time. After at least 3, the dealer suggested to just replace all the rest. I took that (good) suggestion and no more freeze plug problems.
 
Dump twelveteen cans of stop leak in it. It will be just fine.
 
On my 67 273, I had 1 plug dripping behind the starter. The 1 forward of that was damp/seeping. I replaced same 2 on pass' side also, 4 total. Went under with a garden hose and various tools and cleaned chunks of crap out of the block. The previous owner had poured in Barsleak annually.
The plugs I used have a closed nut in the center that is tightened to expand the plug. Dorman product? I forget.
Took previous owners 7 lb cap off and installed a new 18 lb cap. Added coolant recovery bottle too. No problem since. About 10 years. I did pull that bottle to flush a little nasty from the bottom of it 3 times over 3 years.
 
If you get the proform brass freeze plug kit make sure you're not short a few plugs. I was short handed two of the smaller 1 1/4 plugs
 
ok guys thanks for the input !!!!!!!!!!!
yanking my motor :lol:

want to leave the trans in place
any one use a carb lifting plate ????
any other suggestions on the motor pull/remove or keep exhaust manifolds on ???
ok best engine paint ??? going with the 69 blue????
 
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