SHELF LIFE FOR CARB?

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71340Duster

71340Duster

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I'm wondering if anyone can say about how long a new carb can sit on the shelf without needing a tear down or gasket replacements before running? It's a Holley, stored in original box in my garage, not heated but not bad in the mild weather I live in. I'm considering putting both the carb and a new intake up for sale, looking at an estimate of appx. 4 more years before I'll be installing the 340. I'd probably buy something for the car that is the next logical large purchase item (like a wiring harness). Thoughts?
 
How old is it, has it ever had gas in it
Holley's like to leak brand new out of the box let alone sitting for years but you never know.
 
Sitting on shelf new, as in no gas, I would probably hang onto it and do a gasket kit and needles when I was ready.
 
Mine I run out of fuel, and put in a Ziplock freezer bag to keep critters out. Then they go on a shelf in the garage. If there is no temperature control, they should be hit with WD40 or spray silicone and I'd put the plastic bag in at least one box, if not a box in a plastic tote.
 
73AbodEE said:
How old is it, has it ever had gas in it
Holley's like to leak brand new out of the box let alone sitting for years but you never know.
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About a year old, bought it new from Summit. All I've done is put an electric choke it on it, then back into the box. I thought there was already a small amount of gas in it from Holley's tuning/checking but not certain.
 
My thoughts are if you never had gas in it, it should be ready to run. In my experience once the power valve and acc pumps get gas soaked and dried out for a period of time, they get stiffer and should be replaced. If you already have the stuff you might as well hang on to it. Carbs have really jumped up in price. In 4 years they'll be higher.
 
old Holley gaskets pucker pretty good after years of dry storage. New ones, maybe a little better. Carters store forever if the pump leather lasts. If you store one airtight (tupperware, ziplock), get it DRY and toss a bag of baked raw rice (275 for 5 minutes) in there. The Rice is a dessicant. keeps AL pitting and zinc rot.
 
pishta said:
old Holley gaskets pucker pretty good after years of dry storage. New ones, maybe a little better. Carters store forever if the pump leather lasts. If you store one airtight (tupperware, ziplock), get it DRY and toss a bag of baked raw rice (275 for 5 minutes) in there. The Rice is a dessicant. keeps AL pitting and zinc rot.
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Speaking of accelerator pump leathers,anyone got a source ,anymore......?
 
Holleys I would kit. Edelbrocks you may not need to for a couple years or so. The holley metering block gaskets have many holes for different passages. a little shrinkage of the gasket and you have problems. Same with the float bowl gaskets. They are very narrow and contain the passage way for the accelerator pump. I had a Holley start on fire because it sat too long and the gaskets dried out. The old cork and black colored gaskets were terrible for that. The later design blue gaskets are the best bet.
 
toolmanmike said:
Holleys I would kit. Edelbrocks you may not need to for a couple years or so. The holley metering block gaskets have many holes for different passages. a little shrinkage of the gasket and you have problems. Same with the float bowl gaskets. They are very narrow and contain the passage way for the accelerator pump. I had a Holley start on fire because it sat too long and the gaskets dried out. The old cork and black colored gaskets were terrible for that. The later design blue gaskets are the best bet.
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Okay, I'm a dum dum, what's kit mean in your response. There are no dumb questions right : )
 
71340Duster said:
Okay, I'm a dum dum, what's kit mean in your response. There are no dumb questions right : )
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No problem, install a carb kit. Here's the metering block, metering plate and float bowl gaskets. See all the passages and the narrow sealing areas?
holley.jpg
 
If you ever need gaskets buy Superformance. The blue holleys you have to pry off then scrape.
 
Those old Holley brown ones turn to brown rock. Best way to scrape them off is with a scotchbrite wheell on a drill. that takes the gold irridate off the casting though. If your leather pump is still intact (no rip on the side) but rock hard, soak it IN some light oil, like 3-N-1 or sewing machine oil for a few days. It should pop right back into shape.
afb-carb-rebuild-10.jpg


And also a few drops of oil down the pump monthly during down time shoould keep the leather pump operational. I bought a Jiffy kit for a carb a year ago and it still had the purple leather pump! Also the new green pumps are better than the older black rubber ones, alcohol/methanol friendly...supposedly. Wonder if you could make one? Supposeldy "crown leather" (a strong leather used especially for belting, washers, valve cups, and belt laces and tanned usually by drumming with warm fats and other materials) is the only stuff that works, dont know if you could make one?
CADILLAC JOHNSON CARBURETOR ACCELERATOR PUMP LEATHER PLUNGER V8 V12 V16 | eBay

leather pump cup - Google Search{google:eek:mniboxStartMarginParameter}ie=UTF-8#q=leather+pump+cup&safe=off&tbm=shop&spd=14228297946999357076


Q1008F-w600-2l.jpg
 
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