Ok here goes benifits of degreeing cams?

Because if you don't do it, how do you know where it's installed?

Where the intake valve hits max lift is big time important. I could care less where it is at .050 but is should be close to the cam card.

I have seen installs that were WAY off. With tolerance stack up, you could be advanced 10 degrees or retarded 8. Neither is good.


I was at a 2 man shop and we were slammed. So we hired a guy to help out. He was retired and was supposed to be able to handle the job. After a month or so he wanted to do assembly work and he was doing well enough we let him. Every engine that cam out of that shop had the cam degreed. As a customer, you didn't get the option. If we put it together, the cam was degreed. Dead stock to blown alky you didn't get a choice. So we let the guy build a very mild 460 Ford. We had a check list along with the spec sheet to make sure everything was done. I even explained to him that we charge for it so it must be done.

Looking over the paperwork, it all looked good. Sent it to the customer. A week later the customer is pissed because the thing won't run. So I have to drive to his shop to see what the hell is going on. Check the firing order..all the ****. We are now burning profit, because instead of being at the shop, I'm dealing with this Ford. In the end, the cam was retarded by 12 degrees or some ****. Cost me a bunch of money to pull the engine, fix the cam and gaskets etc.

Moral of the story: degree EVERY cam EVERY time.