shift speeds/rpm

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Dave NEO

Dave NEO

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'68 383 4 spd. 3.23 gears - what is minimum I need to be able to shift into 3rd? Is is locked out at lower speeds/rpms? normal? new to me
 
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Any gear, any time, at any speed, and any RPM weather it's the right thing or not it should go into it. :D
This is what they are supposed to do.
 
yea, I was afraid I'd hear that - doing this intermittently..but not good
 
Dave NEO said:
yea, I was afraid I'd hear that - doing this intermittently..but not good
Click to expand...

There is a difference between not going into a gear and the linkage not letting you get to it.
Do you know how to tell?
 
ok - so just went for a 10 min. run and all shifted well. could still be just learning this thing..it is very different from any of the manual transmissions I've had over last 30+ years. Are you sure warming up the oils in motor and tranny could have no effect here?
TrailBeast said:
There is a difference between not going into a gear and the linkage not letting you get to it.
Do you know how to tell?
Click to expand...
maybe not..
 
Dave NEO said:
ok - so just went for a 10 min. run and all shifted well. could still be just learning this thing..it is very different from any of the manual transmissions I've had over last 30+ years. Are you sure warming up the oils in motor and tranny could have no effect here?

maybe not..
Click to expand...

Sure oil temp can have an effect, but it shouldn't stop it from going into gear but just feel more sluggish or tighter.
If the lever moves to the side and slightly toward the gear you want but won't go in the problem is in the trans.
If the lever won't move to the side to get over where you can move it into the gear without jiggling it around it's the linkage.

833's are a mans transmission and the light touch like a Honda, Nissan or Kia isn't even close to the same animal.
Don't mean any offense by that, but the only way I could think to describe it.

If it takes some grunt to get it in gear, but does it without crunching you are probably fine.
Of course there are other fluids to change how it reacts also. (like going from 30wt to ATF, or from 90wt to 30 wt.)
 
thanks no offense taken at all. (had a Porsche 944 and that was like one finger on the shift knob though 5 gears). From your descriptions sounds like the latter - a possible linkage issue - not wanting to move over to the right at all coming up from 2nd- like hitting a wall. we'll see how it acts and what we might be able to adjust. thanks for your input
 
Dave NEO said:
thanks no offense taken at all. (had a Porsche 944 and that was like one finger on the shift knob though 5 gears). From your descriptions sounds like the latter - a possible linkage issue - not wanting to move over to the right at all coming up from 2nd- like hitting a wall. we'll see how it acts and what we might be able to adjust. thanks for your input
Click to expand...

Most shifters have a centering hole through the levers that the linkage rods connect to.
That's probably all it is.
Note where it says 1/4 inch Dia rod.
You put the 1/4 Dia rod through all the levers and then adjust each linkage rod so that each lever on the trans is centered with no bind.

0900c152800716b8.jpg
 
Yeah. Linkage adjustment check should be your first item to verify. I'm sure Trail Beast has done it a hundred times but he forgot to mention that the levers on the trans should be in the neutral position. It's usually easier to detach the rods at the shifter first. Locking the shifter with a pin through the the holes in the shifter locks it into neutral. Thrn adjust the rod length to line up with the holes.
 
good stuff you guys. I have not done that before but I think even I can follow that. When I get the chance we 'll check it out and follow-up. Sunny 75 now - 38 for high and snow tomorrow.....
 
Shift speeds/rpm ? 5800 - 6200 should work :thumbsup:
just trying to keep the thread on track LOL
 
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