273 302 318 340 build
Got 302 heads dropped off to machine shop. Asked Al about the 2 "craters" in combustion chambers(see pics). Al thinks they are casting defects, but will take a closer look. I tried to get valves lapped on one head and couldnt get them sealed. So a valve job is in order. May as well do both heads. For now im going with factory sizes. 1.78 INT and 1.50 EX. This valve job is approx $200.
IF I went bigger to 1.88 & 1.60 its another $100. So potentially $300 in headwork.
For now no milling on block side or intake side. He can do it without having to remove any off the intake (he's done LOTS like this) but my compression might be good enough without milling.
I have a set of 1.88 & 1.60 valves in a nice clean set of heads (#3671587) that Mike/2darts gave me. THANKS AGAIN MIKE!
I got pistons removed from the 83 318. (See pics). Rods are #3418645 with press fit pins. Dammit the rods in 70 318 (#2406782) are full floating. So a mismatch! I haven't disassembled that engine to verify but can see enuf of conrod to get #. (Only one engine stand)
So with different pins I have to rethink my piston choices. Al told me if I find a piston with pin locks(floaters), you can use either style pin (assuming same od)
I had almost decided on Sealed Power 526AP 30 but those are press fit dammit.
If I go beefier rods with press pins (3418645) I have to take into acct the weight difference. Al told me balancing may be needed and the cost of that..... $650!!! So with piston choices muddled again, the piston price may go up, therefore I may need to do some cost saving (stick with stock valve job vs 1.88 & 1.60) "saves" me $100.
He can't start on the heads for a week so it gives me a chance to hunt pistons down as well as start tearing down the 70 shortblock for inspection.
After I removed the 83 pistons I put verniers on the crank journals. Not 100% accurate but gives me an idea anyway. I noticed on # 7/8 journal a very small mark that I could feel with my fingernail. Nothing drastic but thought I should note it(see pic its at approx 11 oclock 1/4" long). This block and crank more than likely wont be used anyway.
Pistons and conrods from 83 look good with bearings showing slight wear. Oh journals..
#1/2 2.1245"
#3/4 2.1250"
#5/6 2.1275"
#7/8 2.1270"
Specs in book are 2.1250 so my hokey measuring is off but it looks like a good forged crank.
Enough typing, time to watch hockey and hunt for pistons!
Thanks for checking in
Steve
Got 302 heads dropped off to machine shop. Asked Al about the 2 "craters" in combustion chambers(see pics). Al thinks they are casting defects, but will take a closer look. I tried to get valves lapped on one head and couldnt get them sealed. So a valve job is in order. May as well do both heads. For now im going with factory sizes. 1.78 INT and 1.50 EX. This valve job is approx $200.
IF I went bigger to 1.88 & 1.60 its another $100. So potentially $300 in headwork.
For now no milling on block side or intake side. He can do it without having to remove any off the intake (he's done LOTS like this) but my compression might be good enough without milling.
I have a set of 1.88 & 1.60 valves in a nice clean set of heads (#3671587) that Mike/2darts gave me. THANKS AGAIN MIKE!
I got pistons removed from the 83 318. (See pics). Rods are #3418645 with press fit pins. Dammit the rods in 70 318 (#2406782) are full floating. So a mismatch! I haven't disassembled that engine to verify but can see enuf of conrod to get #. (Only one engine stand)
So with different pins I have to rethink my piston choices. Al told me if I find a piston with pin locks(floaters), you can use either style pin (assuming same od)
I had almost decided on Sealed Power 526AP 30 but those are press fit dammit.
If I go beefier rods with press pins (3418645) I have to take into acct the weight difference. Al told me balancing may be needed and the cost of that..... $650!!! So with piston choices muddled again, the piston price may go up, therefore I may need to do some cost saving (stick with stock valve job vs 1.88 & 1.60) "saves" me $100.
He can't start on the heads for a week so it gives me a chance to hunt pistons down as well as start tearing down the 70 shortblock for inspection.
After I removed the 83 pistons I put verniers on the crank journals. Not 100% accurate but gives me an idea anyway. I noticed on # 7/8 journal a very small mark that I could feel with my fingernail. Nothing drastic but thought I should note it(see pic its at approx 11 oclock 1/4" long). This block and crank more than likely wont be used anyway.
Pistons and conrods from 83 look good with bearings showing slight wear. Oh journals..
#1/2 2.1245"
#3/4 2.1250"
#5/6 2.1275"
#7/8 2.1270"
Specs in book are 2.1250 so my hokey measuring is off but it looks like a good forged crank.
Enough typing, time to watch hockey and hunt for pistons!
Thanks for checking in
Steve
