Fixing the wiring of my tach - I'm dumber than a blonde!
Hey guys - I've been working on the Scamp when I have time. And the time I've had available went toward replacing the harmonic balancer and setting timing. Well that's done now. So, I'm back on the tachometer. Since starting this thread, I procured a circuit tester as you guys suggested. It came in handy with some LED's I mounted in the ceiling of my pick-up's camper shell (blue LED's ... look nice).
And today I went out and messed with the Scamp and used the tester on the fuse box. Just a while ago (today), I purchased fuse taps for SFE (glass) fuses. I'm going to tap the "ACC" fuse for 12V switched power, and I'm going to tap the "Lamps" fuse for power to the tach bulb. There's no built in ports to tap power.
Somebody asked for a picture, see below. Currently, the 12V wire (black wire below) attaches straight to the battery, with a disconnect near the battery. But I'm going to change the black wire to terminate to the same location as the battery "-" post. And then terminate it to where the yellow wire is in the picture (NEG post). I will move the yellow wire to where the black wire is in the picture. Currently the yellow wire is attached to a (painted) ground under the dash. I'll remove it from the painted ground and attach it to the "ACC" fuse for switched power. The trigger is really the only thing wired correctly.
Seems odd that the left post in the picture is not terminated to (like the other 3). But that's how I found it. The bulb wire has been crimped in with the 12V source wire, and that's why it is on all the time whenever I push the connector together by the battery under the hood. That I knew. I'm going to snip that, probably do a butt-splice on that blue wire and run that blue wire to the fuse box "Lamps" fuse. That would provide power to the tach back light only when I turn on the headlights.
Let me know if you read any problems with what I plan to do.
Hey guys - I've been working on the Scamp when I have time. And the time I've had available went toward replacing the harmonic balancer and setting timing. Well that's done now. So, I'm back on the tachometer. Since starting this thread, I procured a circuit tester as you guys suggested. It came in handy with some LED's I mounted in the ceiling of my pick-up's camper shell (blue LED's ... look nice).
And today I went out and messed with the Scamp and used the tester on the fuse box. Just a while ago (today), I purchased fuse taps for SFE (glass) fuses. I'm going to tap the "ACC" fuse for 12V switched power, and I'm going to tap the "Lamps" fuse for power to the tach bulb. There's no built in ports to tap power.
Somebody asked for a picture, see below. Currently, the 12V wire (black wire below) attaches straight to the battery, with a disconnect near the battery. But I'm going to change the black wire to terminate to the same location as the battery "-" post. And then terminate it to where the yellow wire is in the picture (NEG post). I will move the yellow wire to where the black wire is in the picture. Currently the yellow wire is attached to a (painted) ground under the dash. I'll remove it from the painted ground and attach it to the "ACC" fuse for switched power. The trigger is really the only thing wired correctly.
Seems odd that the left post in the picture is not terminated to (like the other 3). But that's how I found it. The bulb wire has been crimped in with the 12V source wire, and that's why it is on all the time whenever I push the connector together by the battery under the hood. That I knew. I'm going to snip that, probably do a butt-splice on that blue wire and run that blue wire to the fuse box "Lamps" fuse. That would provide power to the tach back light only when I turn on the headlights.
Let me know if you read any problems with what I plan to do.
