Stalling

You have to almost stay under the hood to keep these things going...lol
If your timing is where it should be it sounds like the engine is running lean. I know that at one point my car would want to die when I let the clutch out. I backed the idle mixture screws about a half a turn and it wouldn't want to die after that.
I set my timing by getting the engine at running temp and try to get as much advance as possible. Shut the engine off and let it heat spike then try to start it. When I notice that it is hard to start I back off 2º at a time it cranks "smoothly". Shut it off, heat spike, then adjust the timing... etc..
Take a piece of writing paper .003 thick and put it under the curb idle screw until you can slide the paper out easily on the primary curb idle screw. Then turn it in one turn. Same on the secondary idle screw. Start the engine ... it wants to die turn the idle screw in. Adjust the secondary screw. Load the primary side 1/3 on all adjustments more than the secondary. Curb idle and idle mixture screws.
Now adjust the idle mixture screws with 1.5 turns out on the primary and 1 one turn out on the secondary mixture screws. Tap the accel pump if the engine wants to die don't adjust the curb idle screw on the primary. If the RPMs pick up after tapping accel pump then back out the idle mixture screws. Adjust all four corners the same way making sure you keep the primary side loaded more than the secondary. Get so that when you tap the accel pump arm there is no change in RPMs. This means the engine is using the idle circuit and you're getting the right amount of fuel. You'll get it where you are adjusting the idle mixture screws like half of turn, then one quarter, then one eighth , etc..

All this is hard to explain but this method is what I use and it works really well on my engine. After I started using this method my engine runs good and the spark plugs are looking "normal". Hope this helps.