spring relocation
I thought you would all like to know what I found when doing a inboard kits. The rear in these A bodies are rarely straight from the factory. The main reason traction is always a issue. Did you ever take notice some of these cars were better in slippery conditions than others
Do not use! again Do not use! the hole in the frame or the original mount pad to locate your relocation boxes. Most of them are off by 3/8 to 1/2 inches side to side. An easy way to tell is get under the car and compare the spring mounting plate welded into the car with the hole directly in front of it in the underside of the frame. Or just check the spacing in your wheel well from side to side. You will see They are not in the same location on most. The only cars I see that are correct are usually Standard shift cars with torque boxes.
I just bought two never hit rust free bodies and both of the are off 1/2 inch . Passenger side forward. I will take pictures of them when I do the inboard kit. There is a process to square the car using plumb bobs and a level floor and a marker to do it correctly. One reason why "US Car Tool" inboard kit can never work on all cars the same way for every car unless you space one side back when bolting them on. But this is not the correct way for traction.
Their kit bolts to the existing pad to locate the box. The pads are never in the same spot on all cars.
The easy way to correct this is to move the side that is forward toward the rear with spacers before welding. But The correct way is to move the opposite side forward torward the front which is more work. But this way would create traction. Going rearward you lose traction.
In the old days we use to just re-drill the hole in the spring perches to put the rear where it need to be to go forward. Or shim the mount to go rearward. I will take pics of my new Duster while its being done for reference. Sorry for you guys that already have them in crooked.
My buddy has his car at a chassis shop getting done because I could not get it in my shop at this time because of my accident. I explained this to him . He went down to check his car. To Late!! They will be drilling the Perches. It is off 1/4" That is a lot. If you start spinning the tires on the big end it gets hard to save the car. Straight is not only safer its Faster.
29 x 14.5 on 12 inch rims with 2 1/4 tailpipe from a b-body ,Charger tips with the hangers shortened
I thought you would all like to know what I found when doing a inboard kits. The rear in these A bodies are rarely straight from the factory. The main reason traction is always a issue. Did you ever take notice some of these cars were better in slippery conditions than others
Do not use! again Do not use! the hole in the frame or the original mount pad to locate your relocation boxes. Most of them are off by 3/8 to 1/2 inches side to side. An easy way to tell is get under the car and compare the spring mounting plate welded into the car with the hole directly in front of it in the underside of the frame. Or just check the spacing in your wheel well from side to side. You will see They are not in the same location on most. The only cars I see that are correct are usually Standard shift cars with torque boxes.
I just bought two never hit rust free bodies and both of the are off 1/2 inch . Passenger side forward. I will take pictures of them when I do the inboard kit. There is a process to square the car using plumb bobs and a level floor and a marker to do it correctly. One reason why "US Car Tool" inboard kit can never work on all cars the same way for every car unless you space one side back when bolting them on. But this is not the correct way for traction.
Their kit bolts to the existing pad to locate the box. The pads are never in the same spot on all cars.
The easy way to correct this is to move the side that is forward toward the rear with spacers before welding. But The correct way is to move the opposite side forward torward the front which is more work. But this way would create traction. Going rearward you lose traction.
In the old days we use to just re-drill the hole in the spring perches to put the rear where it need to be to go forward. Or shim the mount to go rearward. I will take pics of my new Duster while its being done for reference. Sorry for you guys that already have them in crooked.
My buddy has his car at a chassis shop getting done because I could not get it in my shop at this time because of my accident. I explained this to him . He went down to check his car. To Late!! They will be drilling the Perches. It is off 1/4" That is a lot. If you start spinning the tires on the big end it gets hard to save the car. Straight is not only safer its Faster.
29 x 14.5 on 12 inch rims with 2 1/4 tailpipe from a b-body ,Charger tips with the hangers shortened
