'73 Disc conversion, but keep 4" bolt pattern
- Thread starter dartslantsix
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MileHighDart
Well-Known Member
Hmmmm, never seen those rotors before. And the ad is not really clear. I say's you have to have disk brake spindles, but it doesn't specify '73 up spindles, or the earlier spindles.
If I were him I would sell what he's got and get the earlier Kelsey Hayes disk setup that is small bolt pattern.
If I were him I would sell what he's got and get the earlier Kelsey Hayes disk setup that is small bolt pattern.
Was thinking about the same thing, but I thought that the sbp studs were 7/16 and these says they're 1/2" I believe the center register is also different. I Think there was some discussion on them here before that they may fit some aftermarket, but not factory wheels.
The pirate jack stuff appears to be all 73+ parts. If the pictures are accurate they're 73+ spindles, that's why they need ball joint adaptors for the small joint UCA's. I'd wager they're having the rotors shipped blank and drilling the pattern themselves.
But yeah, just getting the 5x4" bolt pattern isn't enough. The 73+ hub register is bigger, the track width is wider, and I don't know if those are 7/16" studs. They probably aren't, but I don't know for sure.
Of course, the SBP wilwood set up has all the same problems. Track width, hub register, and stud diameter. Might work if you have aftermarket rims, but most of the OE wheels aren't going to work.
But yeah, just getting the 5x4" bolt pattern isn't enough. The 73+ hub register is bigger, the track width is wider, and I don't know if those are 7/16" studs. They probably aren't, but I don't know for sure.
Of course, the SBP wilwood set up has all the same problems. Track width, hub register, and stud diameter. Might work if you have aftermarket rims, but most of the OE wheels aren't going to work.
if you change from drum to disk I would be interested in your 5x4 small pattern hubs
The small bolt pattern is/was 7/16 studs and left hand threads on the left side. One could go to a whole lot of effort and expense to retain that setup using the later model factory OEM spindles. Those who do use the later model factory disc brake assemblies end up changing all 4 corners to 1/2 right hand studs and 4 different wheels, all to retain some level of uniformity.
Much more simple, typical solutions are available. Those who want disc brakes and retain the OEM small pattern setup and whatever wheels they have usually opt for either OEM K-H disc brakes or aftermarket disc brakes, like Scarebird for example. Try this analogy on your dad... The kitchen needs painted. You have 4 gallons of paint on hand but its flat black. That might help him take the most practical path to his goals.
Much more simple, typical solutions are available. Those who want disc brakes and retain the OEM small pattern setup and whatever wheels they have usually opt for either OEM K-H disc brakes or aftermarket disc brakes, like Scarebird for example. Try this analogy on your dad... The kitchen needs painted. You have 4 gallons of paint on hand but its flat black. That might help him take the most practical path to his goals.
I was looking at the Scarebird kits on line and have a possibly dumb question. What do the wheel studs mount to? Of the parts shown, there doesn't seem to be anything.
The studs are part of the drum in my '67 Dart.
vitamindart
Well-Known Member
the studs are part of the hub on the drum brakes. the drum is its own item.
I believe the drum is "swedged" on? could be the wrong term but i'm sure a someone will chime in with the correct term.
I believe the drum is "swedged" on? could be the wrong term but i'm sure a someone will chime in with the correct term.
DustyRoads
Well-Known Member
You're correct, the drum is swaged to the hub with the wheel studs. To install the Scarebird kit, you cut or grind off the wheel studs, knock the drum off, then press the old stud remnants out of the hub. Press in new studs, and you're good to go. You also have to drill the rotors for SBP, and sometimes you have to grind the caliper a bit to clear your rims. It ain't hard, but it's an afternoon of dirty work.
dartslantsix
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the input...I think I'll try to convince him to swap wheels. He's emotionally invested in the wheels since they were so hard to find back in the late '90's. Not much in the way of choices for small bolt pattern back then.
66Dvert
Working on my custom car parts again!
I drilled mine out (drilled the head off ) 1/8" center drill and 5/8" drilled to remove head and punch out from the back side so I didn't have to screw with the swedge part on the front of the stud holding on the drum. knocked em out from the back and no distortion of the hub.
It/they fit on the hub. I had mine(the hubs not the rotors) drilled and threaded to fit 1/2' screw in studs to the 5 on 4.5 pattern simply because I didn't want to redrill rotors if I ruined the brakes or hot spotted them. other than that they use the original hub's small register will work for your rims. Just drill the rotors to the small bolt pattern. I wanted the 4.5 rally rims I did order 1/2" x 2" screw in studs just because I wanted them to work on a variety of different rims if I changed my mind.
the track width looked pretty good to me also
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The 4 different wheel route will require a pair of 5 on 4 to 5 on 4.5 adapters at the rear ( 60 dollars @ ebay ) and a total of 20 new lug nuts, a different spare wheel and a different lug wrench. Carry 2 lug wrenches or a 4 way incase you should need to get one of the adapters off on the side of the road. I know, everyone carries a cell phone and a AAA card today except me.
A positive note... There will be a buyer for those 4 small bolt pattern wheels. There's a buyer for most anything you pull off or don't use.
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