Fuel Gauge Not Working - Where is 6-ckt Connector??

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mydart270

mydart270

myDart270
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I have a 1968 Dodge Dart 270 fully restored. Its the old family car w/ SL-6. Waited 30 years for the car to be restored (long story).
The fuel gauge is not working, other gauges operate at cluster so its not VR. I believe my problem is electrical.
Question...where is the 6-ckt connector that provides connectivity from body wiring to instrument wiring (actually pin 2 in the connector)? Manual shows DBL (dark blue) from rear sending unit attached to 6-ckt connector (may be male or female). Its mating half connects wiring to cluster and maintains the DBL wire color (actually terminates at 5-ckt connector on cluster).
Where is this 6-ckt connector???? Is it behind driver side kick panel? Under rear trunk mat??? Just can't remember after 50 years.
I plan to place car on hoist, siphon gas from tank (not smart) and then remove tank sender and start t/s'g this week. Restorer guy says gauge deflects when grounded at rear of tank w/ sender wire. Maybe poor gnd and no gnd clip at tank?
Thx all....great forum, great people, great knowledge. I really appreciate the help.
 
mydart270 said:
I have a 1968 Dodge Dart 270 fully restored. Its the old family car w/ SL-6. Waited 30 years for the car to be restored (long story).
The fuel gauge is not working, other gauges operate at cluster so its not VR. I believe my problem is electrical.
Question...where is the 6-ckt connector that provides connectivity from body wiring to instrument wiring (actually pin 2 in the connector)? Manual shows DBL (dark blue) from rear sending unit attached to 6-ckt connector (may be male or female). Its mating half connects wiring to cluster and maintains the DBL wire color (actually terminates at 5-ckt connector on cluster).
Where is this 6-ckt connector???? Is it behind driver side kick panel? Under rear trunk mat??? Just can't remember after 50 years.
I plan to place car on hoist, siphon gas from tank (not smart) and then remove tank sender and start t/s'g this week. Restorer guy says gauge deflects when grounded at rear of tank w/ sender wire. Maybe poor gnd and no gnd clip at tank?
Thx all....great forum, great people, great knowledge. I really appreciate the help.
Click to expand...
It is behind the driver's side kick panel (rear body harness)
You probably have everything wired correctly, so I would check your ground connection at the sending unit.
 
If the gauge pins when grounding the sender wire "at the tank" you wiring is likely fine. It is most likely the sender, might be the ground clip "I doubt it"

To test for ground clip problems wait before you drain the tank. Get under it and do this:

Take ohmeter and measure from metal on sender to body. Simply stab your meter probe "hard" into the sender metal, and into the floor / frame of the car. Should of course be zero ohms resistance or very very close
 
mydart270 said:
thank you..going after this nasty problem today. Fuel Gauge works when car starts and about 2-hrs latter ...shows Empty when I know I am Full. Do gauges stop working after "heating" up????
Click to expand...

Some of the repro senders are junk.... Just because it's new doesn't mean it works...
 
Sounds like you are removing the tank to change the sending unit? This is not necessary. The sending unit comes out without touching the gas tank. Just make sure the tank is no more than 1/2 full!
 
mydart270 said:
thank you..going after this nasty problem today. Fuel Gauge works when car starts and about 2-hrs latter ...shows Empty when I know I am Full. Do gauges stop working after "heating" up????
Click to expand...
Yep, Its possible. Connections inside a gauge are welded. Those can't come and go.
The gauge has contact studs swedged into a fiber board. That stud is attached to the printed circuit board with stamped tin 'pal' nuts. Electrical connection at that nut can come and go with temp change in the gauge/stud/board.
The mechanical limiter heats up also but if the limiter was the issue the temp gauge operating would come and go also. If the temp gauge works fine at all times, you would be wise to clean and tighten those connections too if you go there.
 
X2 ^^^ I had the same problem. Gauge only went to 1/2 tank and then quit all together. It has a new sending unit I put in a new VR, checked the wiring everything was good. Removed the tin nuts, cleaned them on some 600 paper. Cleaned the circuit board with some fine scotch brite and now it works fine
 
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