How Much Work is this: Converter
TF trans all had ring gear welded to convertor. You can physically remove the ring gear with a grinder, heat and a hammer. Its spot welded and can be serviced by grinding the welds, heating up and knocking it off. You install the new ring gear the same way: heat the ring with a torch to expand it slightly, and then quickly install it on the smoothed ring gear race. It will cinch on with the contraction of the cooling ring gear then you tack weld it in a few places. Now why you broke a tooth is suspect to possibly a bad pinion gear on the old starter or a loose starter. flexplates on a TF are usually a 4 bolt spider looking thing that are physically smaller then the torque convertor, sort of underbuilt looking as its just a stamping of the 6 bolt crank flange out to a 4 bolt mount for the convertor. When installing a convertor, the unit will physically push onto the spline, but will not be seated until you rotate and it drops into the pump sprags, about another inch. The fully seated convertor will be about 3/4 inch below the mounting flange of the trans bell. This allows you to install the trans with the convertor attached to the trans without it being bolted to the motors flexplate. it allows you to turn the convertor to match the flexplate pattern (only one way as the holes are not symmetrical) and then slide it in, forward the length of the convertor studs.
TF trans all had ring gear welded to convertor. You can physically remove the ring gear with a grinder, heat and a hammer. Its spot welded and can be serviced by grinding the welds, heating up and knocking it off. You install the new ring gear the same way: heat the ring with a torch to expand it slightly, and then quickly install it on the smoothed ring gear race. It will cinch on with the contraction of the cooling ring gear then you tack weld it in a few places. Now why you broke a tooth is suspect to possibly a bad pinion gear on the old starter or a loose starter. flexplates on a TF are usually a 4 bolt spider looking thing that are physically smaller then the torque convertor, sort of underbuilt looking as its just a stamping of the 6 bolt crank flange out to a 4 bolt mount for the convertor. When installing a convertor, the unit will physically push onto the spline, but will not be seated until you rotate and it drops into the pump sprags, about another inch. The fully seated convertor will be about 3/4 inch below the mounting flange of the trans bell. This allows you to install the trans with the convertor attached to the trans without it being bolted to the motors flexplate. it allows you to turn the convertor to match the flexplate pattern (only one way as the holes are not symmetrical) and then slide it in, forward the length of the convertor studs.
