Super tuning car runs good shooting for great

comments inside the quote

skep419 said

No power brakes

I have another set of header gaskets I could try. You're going too fast; that's a lotta work to just try. I'd wanna prove it first.

Vac can is disconnected.That is part of the response problem. tip-in will be much smoother if you reconnect it.

Will have to get back to you on the timing. 15 initial 32 all in.Very good

Carb is a holley 750 street hp.4 corner idle screws. All just over 1/2 turn out. My combo with the 223/230/110 cam,very similar to yours,right? did not require any idle air bypass with 14* of idle timing, and consequently no idle-fuel in the secondaries.
A half turn on the front mixture screws means the T-port sync is pretty close.
I think your automatic could run a bit more idle-timing and that might/should help with the tip-in response. Unless it fudges the T-port sync too much.
Have you already tried it with;say 16 to 18* of idle timing, the secondaries closed up tight, the front screws at 3/4 to 1 turn out,and the Vcan hooked up? If yes, how was that? If no, that's what I would work towards and see if the tip-in improves. Then I would try to bring the PV in a little sooner. And finally I would work on the pump-shot.
Where does your TC stall at?

I would agree with the rich.In the long-run, not so good

No windage tray, Kevko 5qt pan, OK

Trans dipstick is tight (locking). No, I meant the tube;is it secured to the block at one of the bellhouse bolts, so it cannot rattle?

Click to expand...

Yeah marine pistons are pretty sloppy in the holes,lol. The first time I ever took an outboard engine apart, I was very surprised that so much could be normal. Old air-cooled sled engines were set sloppy-loose too. And I have heard that certain aircraft engines were also pretty loose.
But, in your case,I don't think that's piston slap, and I doubt you could get any meaningful results thru the plug-hole. My experience with piston slap and multi-cylinder auto engines is; if one slaps, they all slap. The slap could be due to; design,or to carelessness on the part of the builder, or to a prolonged overheat situation.
Recall that back in the day,some early engines with forged pistons,the skirt clearance was spec'd to be over .005; that's a lot, and I always heard them at start-up,in my nearly-new,1970-340. My KB-107s were spec'd to be .001 to .0015, but I run them at .0035 ish. And I run the cooling system at a minimum 205*F not to quiet them down,but that does do the trick. I only hear them at start-up when the ambient is below freezing. And then they quiet down in a minute or two.
As to heat-riser valve rattle, that was part of the 340 CI exhaust manifold experience, and I loved it. Mine only rattled at or near idle.