1965 413 Turbo

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JGC403

JGC403

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My projects are on hold right now, until I can get some money back in my bank accounts. My dad wants to work on his 1965 Chrysler New Yorker. Car has been garage kept for all of its life as far as I know. There is hardly any rust on it. Interior isn't bad just faded and will be re-done. The thing is a boat, but it rides good and doesn't handle all that bad. Its got drum brakes at all 4 corners and these will be upgraded.

Anyways on to the engine. We are thinking around 700 hp or so will be a nice amount to get this land yacht moving, and shock a lot of people. Originally advertised to have 10.1:1 compression, HP 340@4600, and torque 470@2800.

From what I have been reading the 413 should have some thick cylinder walls, plus ours doesn't have that many miles on it. So I think the 413 would have a slight strength advantage over a 440.

For the cylinder heads, I'm going with aluminum. I am considering using Eddy heads, My dad wants to use the new Trick Flow heads, but with a Turbo I don't think I need those heads, correct me if I'm wrong here.

Intake manifold I'm thinking a single plane intake.

I'm not sure how low to go on the compression ratio, don't want to go to low that It will be a dog when not under boost, so something like 8.5:1?
Since its a 413 I highly doubt there are going to be any off-the-shelf pistons that will work, so these will be a custom piece. So I can get some quench for the engine, rings will probably be the 1.5mm, 1.5mm, 3mm ring pack for reduced friction.

After reading about the camshaft on: theturboforum. I should have something around 112-114* LSA. Not sure how much lift or duration I need. I'm trying to increase the Efficiency of the engine, so it will be a roller cam.

Can't have a rough idle, whole point is to have a sleeper, so it's got to idle smooth and quiet.

Fuel Injection, Probably use the FiTech system.

Will a remote mount turbo work for what I'm trying to do here?
 
I'd double check that the trick flows 240 will fit the smaller 413 cylinder bore diameter.

Have you considered the Stealth heads from 440 Source? Better for a sleeper...
 
JGC403 said:
My projects are on hold right now, until I can get some money back in my bank accounts. My dad wants to work on his 1965 Chrysler New Yorker. Car has been garage kept for all of its life as far as I know. There is hardly any rust on it. Interior isn't bad just faded and will be re-done. The thing is a boat, but it rides good and doesn't handle all that bad. Its got drum brakes at all 4 corners and these will be upgraded.

Anyways on to the engine. We are thinking around 700 hp or so will be a nice amount to get this land yacht moving, and shock a lot of people. Originally advertised to have 10.1:1 compression, HP 340@4600, and torque 470@2800.

From what I have been reading the 413 should have some thick cylinder walls, plus ours doesn't have that many miles on it. So I think the 413 would have a slight strength advantage over a 440.

For the cylinder heads, I'm going with aluminum. I am considering using Eddy heads, My dad wants to use the new Trick Flow heads, but with a Turbo I don't think I need those heads, correct me if I'm wrong here.

Intake manifold I'm thinking a single plane intake.

I'm not sure how low to go on the compression ratio, don't want to go to low that It will be a dog when not under boost, so something like 8.5:1?
Since its a 413 I highly doubt there are going to be any off-the-shelf pistons that will work, so these will be a custom piece. So I can get some quench for the engine, rings will probably be the 1.5mm, 1.5mm, 3mm ring pack for reduced friction.

After reading about the camshaft on: theturboforum. I should have something around 112-114* LSA. Not sure how much lift or duration I need. I'm trying to increase the Efficiency of the engine, so it will be a roller cam.

Can't have a rough idle, whole point is to have a sleeper, so it's got to idle smooth and quiet.

Fuel Injection, Probably use the FiTech system.

Will a remote mount turbo work for what I'm trying to do here?
Click to expand...
only problem I see potentially is in the heads. 413s are limited severely by the bore size. Any valve size much larger than the factory 1.60 exhaust valve and you run into trouble. the mac wedge 413s were actually notched in the top of the bores to allow clearance for the 1.88 size exhaust valve. Trickflows I believe are 1.76 exhaust valves, Eddlebrock heads use a 1.81 exhaust, both would require the bores to be notched OR possibly over bored to the 4.25 inch 426 size, which would be a .070 over bore over the 4.18 bore of the 413. Also, I'd be worried about the bottom end and would recommend a main girdle for sure.
 
Good point on the valves. I would definitely have to check those. Bore notches wouldn't be that big of a deal if that is all it takes. Cause I want to do a minimum over bore to keep the walls as thick as possible.

If the valves aren't an issue would the Eddy heads or Stealth heads be just fine or would I need the extra flow of the Trick Flow heads?
 
JGC403 said:
Good point on the valves. I would definitely have to check those. Bore notches wouldn't be that big of a deal if that is all it takes. Cause I want to do a minimum over bore to keep the walls as thick as possible.

If the valves aren't an issue would the Eddy heads or Stealth heads be just fine or would I need the extra flow of the Trick Flow heads?
Click to expand...
Being a turbocharged engine, honestly, you won't need the trickflows.
 
JGC403 said:
Good point on the valves. I would definitely have to check those. Bore notches wouldn't be that big of a deal if that is all it takes. Cause I want to do a minimum over bore to keep the walls as thick as possible.

If the valves aren't an issue would the Eddy heads or Stealth heads be just fine or would I need the extra flow of the Trick Flow heads?
Click to expand...
And FYI, bore notching isn't cheap and it can be tough to locate a shop with the knowledge and equipment to do so.
 
I have a 416 twin turbo motor and I used indy 360-2. Ryan at shady dells speed shop built them for me . It made 521 hp without turbos . If you use a good heads , it easier to make hp . Good heads low boost big hp. Bad heads high boost maybe big hp.
 
So you just did a 0.020" over bore? What size valves are in the heads?

O, wait you built a small block.

What size turbos did you use?
 
I used borg warner 66 mm turbos . There well built and the price is write. The nice thing is they post the compressor maps for there turbos. You need to figure out how much boost and hp you want to make. Then you can do the calculations and pick out a turbo. My 66 can make about 1200 hp. As for heads you don't need big valves or ports. I would recommend spending money on porting this way you can run a smaller port and valve but flow high numbers. One more advantage is , smaller ports will produce higher velocity and will help spool turbos.
 
I wouldn't go out of your way to add a quench piston, it can actually hinder a turbo engine and produce micro detonation spots In the quench area.

Same with the heads, don't spend too much or go out of the way to have big heads and valves. The turbo is doing all the work. You can also unshroud the block with a simple bastard file. I did it on my 318 mag and it didn't take too long. Take some measurements and start grinding it away.

Not sure about the strength of the block and bottom end but turbo engines tend to be a lot easier on the bottom end than NA and superchargers are the worst.

The real hat trick you need to pull off is proper fuel and ignition control. I'm a big fan of e85
 
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