I am going to power my electric choke with a relay. I have a 68 Dart with electronic ignition. I found this schematic online. Is this how it's done? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Relay for Electric Choke
- Thread starter domdart
- Start date
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Why a relay?
mderoy340
Well-Known Member
I always use Ignition switched (blue white tracer) for 85. Using a relay removes the load off the ignition circuit.
72Dart6pack
Harder Better Faster Stronger.
You probably need this. Not a relay.
Now I see, yes that diagram will do it just use a good relay, keep away from the china junk.
65Val
Average Length Member
OK, maybe I'm just stupid, but why not just run a decent wire off the big alternator stud over to the choke? I've seen this done many times.
whitepunkonnitro
Well-Known Member
The factory powered its electronic chokes from the field circuit of the alternator, NOT the ignition.
A relay is pointless. What you need is a thermal limiter.
Tap into one of the field wires, run it to a limiter and then to the choke itself.
Simple and foolproof.
I have tested, factory limiters for $25 shipped.
A relay is pointless. What you need is a thermal limiter.
Tap into one of the field wires, run it to a limiter and then to the choke itself.
Simple and foolproof.
I have tested, factory limiters for $25 shipped.
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mopowers
Well-Known Member
That diagram will work fine. I'd replace the fuse with a 10 amp fuse. That's what holley recommends.
Choke would be hot at all times in a vehicle with OEM wiring. 10 amp fuse is fine as mopower suggested.
I've built a bunch of choke relay kit. I don't like taxing the ignition wires any more than what's required to run the car. It's one of the wires that notoriously get fried because it's spliced into to fire all sorts of things in a car.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
The field and the ignition amount to the same place, electrically
whitepunkonnitro
Well-Known Member
Opposite sides of the regulator
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Electrically they are the same point, there is ONLY ONE switch "run" wire coming out of the bulkhead. Depending on the year, that feeds ignition, field "blue" regulator "blue" power, the smog doo dads if used, the electric choke, all of that
On that note if he wants a relay, I'd cut the switched IGN1 coming out of the bulkhead, use the bulkhead end to key a relay, and put the other end on the load contacts.
My choke is currently hooked up where IGN1 connects to the ballast resistor. My car would not start. The problem was the connection in the bulkhead. The female side of that connection was slightly deformed from heat. Before I bypass that connection thru the bulkhead, I thought I would run the choke somewhere else.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
That's the problem there IS NO where else. There was a big argument on here couple weeks ago........you CAN use a fuel pump style (multiterminal) oil pressure switch, but the thing is, since the bulkhead is a bit flakey anyway, cutting the IGN1 wire and inserting a relay solves several issues:
1....It gets rid of voltage drop to the regulator which causes overvoltage/ overcharging
2...It gets rid of the entire issue of poor connections/ voltage drop to the alternator field, the ignition system, and of course.......your choke.
3...If relieves draw and stress on that bulkhead circuit, and including the igntion switch terminals.
Robj
Well-Known Member
On a '70 Dart the dark blue wire comes from the bulkhead, runs to a factory splice who's branches form the blue field wire between the alternator and the regulator and one also runs through the ballast resistor and then to the coil forming the run wire for the ignition.
I want to make sure I understand your instructions. I freely admit that I'm kind of thick and like things spelled out.
- Cut the blue wire between the bulkhead and the splice.
- Use the end coming from the bulkhead (from the ignition switch) only as the power source to trigger a relay.
- Run a new power wire from a battery source such as the starter relay lug from the battery to the relay.
- Connect the other end of the previously cut blue wire coming from the factory splice to the other side of the relay and use that new battery power source through the relay for the ignition run, field wire, and electric choke.
- This being to reduce the current through the bulkhead and give a more steady/even flow to the regulator.
BigBlockMopar
BigBlockMember
I never liked those electric choke heaters.
It controls the choke irrelevant of outside or engine temp, or even if the engine needs it.
Other than that it also adds electrical complexity to an usually already aged electrical system.
It controls the choke irrelevant of outside or engine temp, or even if the engine needs it.
Other than that it also adds electrical complexity to an usually already aged electrical system.
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