throttle not closing all the way

-
diymirage

diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
Joined
Oct 12, 2012
Messages
33,760
Reaction score
41,647
Location
michigan
hey guys
i had a clogged up fuel filter the other day, and to get home i ran her without a filter for a few miles

im guessing thats where the issue came from, but the throttle doesnt want to close all the way
(i got her to idle at 750 in neutral, 600 in gear)

every once in a while , it wont close all the way, and hang around 1200-2000 RPM

the carb is a proform 750, basically a 4 barrel holley

i dont see anything in the way to mechanically stop her from closing, and there is a little tension on both the return springs (lokar set up)

is there anything i can do to clean, oil or grease the shaft to get it to operate smoothly?
 
ScampMike said:
is the throttle lever hitting the under side of the air cleaner?
Click to expand...
mhh possible
but not likely

when its idling that high, i can get out, push the throttle lever back and it will drop to where it needs to be
ill pull the air cleaner and look for marks of it hitting
 
Maybe the binding is in the cable itself. Try disconnecting both ends and see it the cable slides freely.
 
i put some fresh graphite powder on the cable a few weeks ago
i can put my foot under the pedal and flick it up...doesnt make a difference (of course, the way the cable is attached, that might not do anything)
 
diymirage said:
hey guys
i had a clogged up fuel filter the other day, and to get home i ran her without a filter for a few miles

im guessing thats where the issue came from, but the throttle doesnt want to close all the way
(i got her to idle at 750 in neutral, 600 in gear)

every once in a while , it wont close all the way, and hang around 1200-2000 RPM

the carb is a proform 750, basically a 4 barrel holley

i dont see anything in the way to mechanically stop her from closing, and there is a little tension on both the return springs (lokar set up)

is there anything i can do to clean, oil or grease the shaft to get it to operate smoothly?
Click to expand...
I know this is a real long shot, but I once had a Carter 500, which I had bought new, lose the throttle blade screws! All four were gone, and the blades were loose and had slid out of the throttle shaft slot about an 1/8" and were making the engine run anywhere from 1000 to 1500rpm. It was like it was on fast idle and wouldn't kick down.
 
My lokar does the same thing outer cable cover comes out of the back of the mount bracket
 
rustycowll69 said:
I know this is a real long shot, but I once had a Carter 500, which I had bought new, lose the throttle blade screws! All four were gone, and the blades were loose and had slid out of the throttle shaft slot about an 1/8" and were making the engine run anywhere from 1000 to 1500rpm. It was like it was on fast idle and wouldn't kick down.
Click to expand...

Wonder where those went? :D

Might just need a little more spring tension if you don't find any other reason.
My carb was doing that awhile back and I found the primary linkage was just a little to close to the secondaries linkage and was hanging the throttle open slightly.
That was an Edelbrock though.
 
TrailBeast said:
Wonder where those went? :D

Might just need a little more spring tension if you don't find any other reason.
My carb was doing that awhile back and I found the primary linkage was just a little to close to the secondaries linkage and was hanging the throttle open slightly.
That was an Edelbrock though.
Click to expand...
I guess that slant 6 just ate 'em up, and spit 'em out! hahaha.
 
BWDart said:
My lokar does the same thing outer cable cover comes out of the back of the mount bracket
Click to expand...
when does this happen? I know they tend to if you're ripping the throttle by hand, but it shouldn't at all under normal (foot) throttling
 
I was tinkering with my carb today and afterwards, the same thing happened to me. I have a Holley 600 with Lokar cable. Mine would hang just 100 to 200 RPM above normal idle. Check the ball end of the cable where it goes through the pedal arm. With the slack in the cable when I disconnected it, the ball no longer was resting in the pedal arm. It was on the crimped shoulder. Probably doesn't make a lot of sense when reading it, but if you take a look, you'll see what I'm talking about. Maybe lubricate the pedal rod that goes through the bracket as well. Good luck!
 
I think when engine toques it pulls it out not happy with lokar the cable just slides into the bracket nothing to hold it in tight check motor mounts if bad they allow torque to twist engine
 
Do you have the proper Mopar bracket on the throttle arm, and is your return spring anchored properly on both ends? I have seen that happen on installs where the spring is not anchored up front, and the throttle end is on a non-Mopar arm.
Have also seen it happen if the accelerator pump adjust was too-tight,or the secondary link had no clearance,or if the throttle was too far closed due to too much timing.

And also when a 2bbl bracket is used and the cable clamped in the wrong spot
 
I had a simular issue with mine and found with the Lokar cable nut which mounts to the fire wall had come loose peddle side which would cause cable to pull on a odd angle. Didn't do it all the time and I had to give the throttle a flick to reset , once I found what was going on and tighten it problem was solved.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top