Speedometer rebuilding. No info
Hey now.....did you know there was a felt wick in there to oil? Must be the 50,000 mile check. "...
I removed the oil cup with the point of a knife blade (of couse I replaced it). At first I thought that the cup was actually a plug, however, the cup has a tiny triangular hole punched in the bottom, but only two edges of the triangle are cut through. The piece is pushed through the hole to form a small spike similar one of the cheap thumbtacks I used as a youth. Anyway, the little triangular point pokes into the felt wick to help oil flow from the cup into the wick. By removing the cup I was able to apply oil more quickly. I let the oil soak into the wick and on into the bushing and periodically I turned the speedometer to see how well the oil was moving into the bushing. I didn't want to over oil it.
This photo shows the gear train that drives the odometer. The trip meter reset knob doesn't come out of the instrument panel bezel. To separate the metal panel housing from the plastic bezel and remove the speedometer, first unscrew the speedometer mounting screws and then all the Phillips-head screws holding the metal housing and bezel together. The speedometer will stay with the bezel, but it isn't fastened solidly so be careful with it. To remove the speedometer from the bezel, the reset knob has to come loose from the brackets on the side of the speedometer. A small "C" clip hold it there. You can see the gear on the reset knob and the gear on the end of the trip indicator shaft. Those gears have to mesh when it is reassembled. The reset knob has little black bushings that fit into the tabs on the speedometer above and below the trip indicator gear. Just be sure to notice what it looks like before you take it apart...."
Hey now.....did you know there was a felt wick in there to oil? Must be the 50,000 mile check. "...
I removed the oil cup with the point of a knife blade (of couse I replaced it). At first I thought that the cup was actually a plug, however, the cup has a tiny triangular hole punched in the bottom, but only two edges of the triangle are cut through. The piece is pushed through the hole to form a small spike similar one of the cheap thumbtacks I used as a youth. Anyway, the little triangular point pokes into the felt wick to help oil flow from the cup into the wick. By removing the cup I was able to apply oil more quickly. I let the oil soak into the wick and on into the bushing and periodically I turned the speedometer to see how well the oil was moving into the bushing. I didn't want to over oil it.
This photo shows the gear train that drives the odometer. The trip meter reset knob doesn't come out of the instrument panel bezel. To separate the metal panel housing from the plastic bezel and remove the speedometer, first unscrew the speedometer mounting screws and then all the Phillips-head screws holding the metal housing and bezel together. The speedometer will stay with the bezel, but it isn't fastened solidly so be careful with it. To remove the speedometer from the bezel, the reset knob has to come loose from the brackets on the side of the speedometer. A small "C" clip hold it there. You can see the gear on the reset knob and the gear on the end of the trip indicator shaft. Those gears have to mesh when it is reassembled. The reset knob has little black bushings that fit into the tabs on the speedometer above and below the trip indicator gear. Just be sure to notice what it looks like before you take it apart...."
