abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
Weird. None of my holleys leak.
Edelbrock Carburetors?
- Thread starter coalman
- Start date
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Well this is not a normal Holley, it has a 80508 main body, Quick Fuel float Bowls front and back and the vacuum secondary is also Quick Fuel... Beside leaking I have never been able to get the choke fast idle to work. Thanks for your input....
mopowers
Well-Known Member
If your holleys leak a lot, you're doing it wrong.
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
I like the Ede 600 manual choke carb. Living in Cali, I take all the choke parts out of my Ede carbs.
This carb works very well all around, only giving away a couple ponies on the top rpm range, to the 750 Ede. Again, great all around carb.
But my favorite out of all the Ede's is the Thunder Series 650, with the adjustable secondaries.
This carb is the perfect size for a 340, or 360, and just works. Again, I take all the choke parts out of the
equation. This is kind of a pricey carb, but can be found used. Find this carb, you wont be disappointed.
Yes, this is close to the Carter AVS that was on my 69 Swinger 340, which I believe was 625 CFM....
Today I should be receiving a 1405 (600 CFM with manual choke) for my LA 360. First thing I'm doing is jetting it with the 1406 set-up. I'm worn out on 'too rich' from the 1407. At this point, I'm ready to (possibly) deal with too lean and go richer. I am using an AEM 30-0300 AFR gauge, and will come back and post up how it runs with the 1406 tune.
1406 tune, meaning I will use the jets, rods, springs and pump shot of the 1406 in the 1405. My car is already set up for a manual choke, and the manual choke was $31 less expensive. And is 1 less thing to have to wire up. I can feel in my choke cable when it is starting to open the butterflies. Just a touch of movement on the butterflies, 1 small push on the throttle, and if fires up (cold). I hope that only gets better with the 1405. I expect cranking and street driving to be better with the 600 CFM due to the increase in air velocity through the primaries ... better atomizing the fuel available.
7milesout
1406 tune, meaning I will use the jets, rods, springs and pump shot of the 1406 in the 1405. My car is already set up for a manual choke, and the manual choke was $31 less expensive. And is 1 less thing to have to wire up. I can feel in my choke cable when it is starting to open the butterflies. Just a touch of movement on the butterflies, 1 small push on the throttle, and if fires up (cold). I hope that only gets better with the 1405. I expect cranking and street driving to be better with the 600 CFM due to the increase in air velocity through the primaries ... better atomizing the fuel available.
7milesout
I really appreciate your input, I still might rebuild the carb. I will have to contact Holly direct to see what they recommend, the 80508 is an older model I believe and is 750 cfm. I will see what the say on the Quick fuel parts. Thank
mopowers
Well-Known Member
There's no reason why that carb shouldn't work well on a 360. That 80508 is a 750 vacuum secondary 4160 (primary metering block w/ secondary metering plate). Are the primary metering block and secondary metering plate the ones that go with the main body?
I would just clean it out really good and put everything back to stock (pri. jets-72, PV- 6.5, secondary spring- plain, squirter- .025 etc.) and start over. There's no reason why your quick fuel bowls should leak. People swap bowls from different manufacturers all the time. Just buy a couple new bowl gaskets and make sure the bowl screw gaskets are good too. Check float adjustment gaskets as well. Hell, just pick up a Holley rebuild kit- $29: Holley Performance 37-754 Renew Carburetor Rebuild Kit
Clean it up, put it back together with good gaskets and fire it up. While you have it off, square up the transfer slots too. That's a decent carb.
Thanks for the advice.....
threewood
Well-Known Member
Not quite. Manual choke version has larger jets and smaller metering rods = richer. Compare 1405 manual to 1406 electric....
They are good carbs and will run right out the box. I have a 1405 on a poly motor with no tuning and there is zero issues after 3 years in the desert.
But like me, YESTERDAY, before I even put my brand new 1405 on my Scamp, I converted to the 1406 mains, rods, springs, and the pump shot was already on mid. So, I effectively have a 1406 with manual choke. I didn't get finished as I have to replace part of a fuel line tonight. But I will finish tonight. We'll see how it runs, hopefully tonight.
Does the 1405 have more power? In my opinion: No. It is a jetting difference only. Same carb. Does the 1405 jetting make more power? That depends on a whole lot of variables.
Unless you put an AFR gauge on it (or run it down the dragstrip looking at the trap speed) and tune for ~12.5 at WOT or highest trap speed, 1406 / 1405 doesn't matter. Different engines require different things. I don't necessarily think the 1406 set-up I put in the 1405 will make the most power. But, I've been fighting rich on Power Mode and Cruise Mode with the 1407. I should be lean enough (if not too lean) on the 1406 jetting. Either way if it runs great down low, but doesn't hit the AFR I want (12.5) at WOT, I will simply throw a bigger secondary main jet on it, until I get there. That way, I can have my cake (good low rpm (street) manners), and eat it (WOT) too!
7milesout
Does the 1405 have more power? In my opinion: No. It is a jetting difference only. Same carb. Does the 1405 jetting make more power? That depends on a whole lot of variables.
Unless you put an AFR gauge on it (or run it down the dragstrip looking at the trap speed) and tune for ~12.5 at WOT or highest trap speed, 1406 / 1405 doesn't matter. Different engines require different things. I don't necessarily think the 1406 set-up I put in the 1405 will make the most power. But, I've been fighting rich on Power Mode and Cruise Mode with the 1407. I should be lean enough (if not too lean) on the 1406 jetting. Either way if it runs great down low, but doesn't hit the AFR I want (12.5) at WOT, I will simply throw a bigger secondary main jet on it, until I get there. That way, I can have my cake (good low rpm (street) manners), and eat it (WOT) too!
7milesout
You are incorrect because once the carb is tuned for the engine the stock jetting has no play. The manual choke carb could be making more power on the engine/dyno/track because the engine needs a richer jetting. This is an easy change to the electric choke carb. All the above could also be worked in reverse.
The electric choke carb makes more power than the manual because the engine needs a leaner jetting.
Calling the manual choke carb better because it comes richer OOTB is just plain insane.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
But like me, YESTERDAY, before I even put my brand new 1405 on my Scamp, I converted to the 1406 mains, rods, springs, and the pump shot was already on mid. So, I effectively have a 1406 with manual choke. I didn't get finished as I have to replace part of a fuel line tonight. But I will finish tonight. We'll see how it runs, hopefully tonight.
Does the 1405 have more power? In my opinion: No. It is a jetting difference only. Same carb. Does the 1405 jetting make more power? That depends on a whole lot of variables.
Unless you put an AFR gauge on it (or run it down the dragstrip looking at the trap speed) and tune for ~12.5 at WOT or highest trap speed, 1406 / 1405 doesn't matter. Different engines require different things. I don't necessarily think the 1406 set-up I put in the 1405 will make the most power. But, I've been fighting rich on Power Mode and Cruise Mode with the 1407. I should be lean enough (if not too lean) on the 1406 jetting. Either way if it runs great down low, but doesn't hit the AFR I want (12.5) at WOT, I will simply throw a bigger secondary main jet on it, until I get there. That way, I can have my cake (good low rpm (street) manners), and eat it (WOT) too!
7milesout
I'm betting you are going to be too lean with the 1406 out of the box jetting.
Even living at over 5,000 feet I had to jet up from it.
Ding Ding Ding Ding, Winner!
Power Mode: Lean.
Cruise Mode: Seems about right.
Idle: Tuned to 12.9 ~ 13.5. It jumps around continuously.
WOT: Didn't even attempt it. Too lean during Power Mode, so I was not excited about what might happen at full power. Gonna richen power mode and try WOT only after that.
First thing I'm going to do is put a firmer step up spring in it. This would pull the rod out of the main jet at higher vacuum levels (than the current one), bringing on the fuel sooner. If that doesn't richen it up enough, then I'll consider rods / jets.
But the one thing guys complain about on the Edelbrock quite commonly, I see this problem also. Just after consuming the pump shot, it goes too lean. Even at max pump shot, it still spikes lean. And can lead to a stumble. Mine did this on the 1407, and is doing it on the 1405. For those without an AFR, this happens at about 1.5 seconds after beginning to accelerate away from a stop.
I have a theory on how to improve this. The theory is this. What if the "step" on the rod were higher up on the metering rod. Higher up meaning closer to the bend in the rod. In this way, as vacuum is lost on an initial acceleration, and spring begins to lift the rod out of the main jet, the step arrives in the main jet sooner. And thus more fuel, thus no lean stumble.
Does anyone else think this might work? I could *possibly* have some custom metering rods machined to test this theory.
7milesout
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
That is exactly what mine does on the pump shot, but not too bad.
I do get an occasional stumble if the engine isn't completely heated up and I can watch it go lean for a second.
Changing where the shoulder is might help, but I just opened the squirters a bit larger and it helped but the pump total volume is really the problem .
It was a better alternative than always running too rich to solve it though.
At one point I even considered a custom added shot on tip in (like and injector), but I didn't do it because of the injector would need a lot more fuel pump pressure and the whole thing didn't seem worth the trouble if we could just change carbs to something more suited.
I ordered the 37-754 kit, and it is the rear float bowl leaking pretty bad. Thanks
I put a vacuum gauge on mine a few minutes ago and before I cranked it, I swtched the step-up springs to the strongest springs (8 in w.c.) available in the calibration kit. In the Edelbrock manual it says to use a spring that is ~ half the manifold vacuum.
Cranked it up and not warmed up it idles about 16 inches. Once mostly warmed it increases to 17 inches. So, based on the Edelbrock carb manual, I made a good move on those springs. I didn't get to drive it as it is raining and I just cleaned the Scamp on Sunday! I doubt it's going to get me as rich as I would like, but maybe it will help the 1.5 second lean spike.
Idle AFR's 13.0 ~ 13.7.
Idle Vacuum 16" ~ 18" but spends the majority of the time on 17".
Idle Speed ~825 rpm.
Comes right off idle great. At that level of vacuum (correct me if I'm wrong) I think it indicates that my cam is not so aggressive. I'm starting to get addicted to this stuff. Am I being seduced by the dark side?
7milesout
Cranked it up and not warmed up it idles about 16 inches. Once mostly warmed it increases to 17 inches. So, based on the Edelbrock carb manual, I made a good move on those springs. I didn't get to drive it as it is raining and I just cleaned the Scamp on Sunday! I doubt it's going to get me as rich as I would like, but maybe it will help the 1.5 second lean spike.
Idle AFR's 13.0 ~ 13.7.
Idle Vacuum 16" ~ 18" but spends the majority of the time on 17".
Idle Speed ~825 rpm.
Comes right off idle great. At that level of vacuum (correct me if I'm wrong) I think it indicates that my cam is not so aggressive. I'm starting to get addicted to this stuff. Am I being seduced by the dark side?
7milesout
threewood
Well-Known Member
I actually misread your statement as "zero difference" so I posted the specs. Leaner is better for HP but on todays **** fuel I would rather have it a bit fat and be safe.
Took the Carb apart today, how many throttle body screws are there supposed to be? Two holes left and right in center of throttle body have nothing in them. Thanks
Edelbrock/Carters have perimeter bolts all exposed and then the linkages that tie into the top plate.
The TQ has 2 hidden down the primary's on the rearward wall.
Once you remove all the screws and linkages, a light to medium hammer tap maybe needed to free the top from the bottom due to the gasket between them.
The TQ has 2 hidden down the primary's on the rearward wall.
Once you remove all the screws and linkages, a light to medium hammer tap maybe needed to free the top from the bottom due to the gasket between them.
Are you talking about the Holley here? If so, those center bolt holes don't always have screws. I believe there are six total, three on each side of the baseplate near the float bowls.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
whats wrong with the choke? manual or electric? my proform electric choke carb took a little time but the electric choke is awesome.
Fast idle instructions were back words, clockwise vs counter clockwise on adjustment screw, got that fixed. I have the carb torn down to fix the leaks from both float bowls. Thanks
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