Replacing windshield

Well, my glass was delaminating on the edges and looking like burnt plastic inside so I decided to change it. I already had the dash and column out and the interior is gutted. What I did was pull the lockstrip out, cut around the gasket edge (not the gasket itself, just where the seam is). Then I put a thick blanket on the hood to catch the glass. I laid on the floor and pushed it out with the feet working my way across the top. Once it popped loose at the top, I went back outside and flipped it onto the blanket. The original seal came right off the pinch weld, nothing torn or broken. I hope this helps someone as I had never done one before.
It would have been much easier with 2 people, but it can be done alone if you have too.

I have since got a new seal and lockstrip from Precision and will be my glass buddy will be helping me install the new glass with a rope as he has done them before. A new skill is about to be learned!

I have the pinch weld completed cleaned up and found only two rust holes the side of a pea which I will repair. Pretty shocked that a car that sat outside for it's lifetime is in this good of shape! It rains just a bit in Florida you know...

I do have some questions for the guys that have done this before:

Headliner back in BEFORE windshield?
Dash back in BEFORE windshield?
What do you use on the pinchweld? Anything to level it so the gasket seals better?
Gasket on glass then rope it in. What do you lube the gasket with?

This sucker leaked quite a bit and way more than those two little holes could have caused. I don't want the new one to pour water too. I only saw a tiny bit of butyl on the bottom of the factory seal along the top of the cowl.

Headliner for sure

Headliner yes
Dashboard yes
This stuff: PP3MP - CRL POWR 300 Series Automotive Urethane Pinchweld Primer
And you don't really lube the gasket, at least not very much, you use rope that's oily.

I don't even use rope since the glass, front and back, goes in fine with a couple plastic trim sticks and some patience.
I did spend some time in auto glass so I understand different comfort levels for folks when it comes to working with the stuff.

Check out posts 86 and 89 in my thread.
Cinnamon 75 Duster \

I've got a friend that does auto glass and he is going to help me with the windshield when I am ready. He prefers rope as he has broken windshields the other way. I guess I need to finish up the custom dash and get it back in the car along with the wiper transmission and headliner.

Thank you guys for your tips and help! I will share this info with him.

When i was working in a glass shop,there was a butyl in a caulking gun that we would apply to the bed,very sparingly.

I don't mean to complicate things but... there have been a couple of posts about less that perfect results. If yours doesn't have stainless reveal moldings you could ignore this.
We all choose to work with gravity. We'll place the bottom of the glass in the gasket and work upward. If there is any slack/misfit in the gasket, glass a tad undersize, it will go to and appear at the top. The gasket appears stretched and/or doesn't align well with the reveal moldings up there where it shows. I feel pretty sure that this is why the factory service manuals state top of glass goes in first. Any slack in the gasket would end up in lower line and those corners.
Short of sharing pics of my own results I'll just say it doesn't leak and it looked great before installing the reveal moldings. IF I ever install another windshield, I will align and bond the top of the gasket to the body first and work from top down.
Who doesn't look at all the tasks they complete and think, "That could have been better." I didn't know of or consider another method so what I have is what I'll live with.
Good luck with yours whichever way you go about it.

Is this that 74 Duster?
It is not a rope in rubber seal.
Won't work.
Gasket goes in first.
Then shoehorn the glass into rubber and put the locking rubber round thing in the gasket.
If your glass buddy has only done new cars this will be a new experience for him too.
You can use 3M 8509 (from O'Reilly) and it may not leak.
Or you can use Locktite PL S30 from Lowes/Depot and it will never leak.
But you will also never get the rubber back out.
I've done A bodies with S30 and later have been able to change windshields with the rubber staying put.
The drawback is that the clips on reveal molding on some cars like (B bodies) are impossible to get to with the rubber in the way.
On those cars I've cut the rubber out to get to the clips.
If it was glued it with PL S30 that would have been a nightmare.
So go with 8509 probably.

Need a locking strip tool.

I used butyl in caulk tube from NAPA to bed the bottom of the front seal on the metal 'shelf'.(after initially using the ribbon caulk and still had leaks) Everywhere else around the front and back I used butyl ribbon type Windo-weld to secure to pinchweld (put it in the gasket first and press onto the metal). I added the urethane windoweld in caulk gun tube under the lip to the glass after install.
I used windex as 'lube'. Recommend not using anything that will not allow sealants to bond later.
Make sure its warm enough so gasket is flexible.