Identify caliper type 68 barracuda

-
Chryslerkid

Chryslerkid

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2012
Messages
448
Reaction score
42
Location
Berkeley
Hi gang

Can someone identify the specific type of caliper I have in my barracuda? Trying to buy a replacement and want the correct information to tell the salesperson. Pictures below. Thanks in advance

IMG_0292.JPG


IMG_0289.JPG


IMG_0291.JPG
 
I have a caliper $25 plus shipping if you want it. It is remanufactured and still in wrapping. I ended up getting 2 from dr diff when I decided to replace both my fronts.
 
lilnoah said:
I have a caliper $25 plus shipping if you want it. It is remanufactured and still in wrapping. I ended up getting 2 from dr diff when I decided to replace both my fronts.
Click to expand...
Thanks but I'm going to order a bunch of parts new from online tube soon so I'll have to pass on the rotors
 
This is where it gets puzzling for new owners. All too often these later model spindles and calipers were switched right and left when moved to a earlier build. Then you buy to replace just 1 and its the wrong one. Best plan? Buy both left and right, replace both. Even if/when you confirm which is which you avoid the possible directional pull braking that can come from 1 new and 1 used caliper.
 
RedFish said:
This is where it gets puzzling for new owners. All too often these later model spindles and calipers were switched right and left when moved to a earlier build. Then you buy to replace just 1 and its the wrong one. Best plan? Buy both left and right, replace both. Even if/when you confirm which is which you avoid the possible directional pull braking that can come from 1 new and 1 used caliper.
Click to expand...
Great tip! Much appreciated. I'm not reinventing the wheel here. Nor do I care to.
 
Chryslerkid said:
Yes, many things to do on this car. I knocked out the fuel system. Now brakes then suspension and exhaust. List goes on and on.
Click to expand...
In that case lets pause to consider the process. From what I can see in your pics, there is no stabilizer bar to cause conflict, soooo the spindles and rotors were placed on correct left/right sides.( Confirm that caliper sits forward of spindle center line / between 1 oclock and 3 oclock. ) We'll assume you still have the OEM K member. It is fully closed so a bar cant thread through its middle cavity. 73 and later K is cutaway for this bar path.
I'm sure everyone reading here will agree, Once you start driving this car you will wish it had a front stabilizer bar. Even the cheapest aftermarket bar is better than no bar.
There are ways to attach the earlier type bars end links so they clear these calipers as they are positioned now but... the most common solution always has been to switch the spindles left and right. ( Caliper moves to rear of spindle center line / between 9 oclock and 11 oclock ). That will require the longer F-body fluid hoses, but a pre 73 design bar that routes around the front of the K would bolt on per its instructions.
So what I'm getting at... suspension goals met before brake renew could be the better process, saving time and money.
 
RedFish said:
In that case lets pause to consider the process. From what I can see in your pics, there is no stabilizer bar to cause conflict, soooo the spindles and rotors were placed on correct left/right sides.( Confirm that caliper sits forward of spindle center line / between 1 oclock and 3 oclock. ) We'll assume you still have the OEM K member. It is fully closed so a bar cant thread through its middle cavity. 73 and later K is cutaway for this bar path.
I'm sure everyone reading here will agree, Once you start driving this car you will wish it had a front stabilizer bar. Even the cheapest aftermarket bar is better than no bar.
There are ways to attach the earlier type bars end links so they clear these calipers as they are positioned now but... the most common solution always has been to switch the spindles left and right. ( Caliper moves to rear of spindle center line / between 9 oclock and 11 oclock ). That will require the longer F-body fluid hoses, but a pre 73 design bar that routes around the front of the K would bolt on per its instructions.
So what I'm getting at... suspension goals met before brake renew could be the better process, saving time and money.
Click to expand...
That sounds like a practical plan. Where would I find a good quality/good buy stabilizer bar? Any part numbers or websites in mind for the front suspension work? Thanks for the helpful info.
 
Chryslerkid said:
That sounds like a practical plan. Where would I find a good quality/good buy stabilizer bar? Any part numbers or websites in mind for the front suspension work? Thanks for the helpful info.
Click to expand...
Iron part brand and/or quality? Bushing construction/material? Piece mill versus vendor kit? So many options today. All are open for debate and will lead to debate if a personal preference is stated here. I'll only suggest you research all of it. Every positive and negative aspect has been stated in previous threads.
 
RedFish said:
Iron part brand and/or quality? Bushing construction/material? Piece mill versus vendor kit? So many options today. All are open for debate and will lead to debate if a personal preference is stated here. I'll only suggest you research all of it. Every positive and negative aspect has been stated in previous threads.
Click to expand...
Haha okay copy that. Thank you sir. Been researching. I'll update soon
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top