Retro fitting an AC setup.

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65PlumCrzy

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Has anyone attempted, succeeded, or have information on retro fitting a 67-72 factory AC setup into an earlier a-body? Want to install a factory AC unit in my wife's 1965 Dart GT and I'm trying to stay away from a Knee Knocker setup.
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It can be done, but you'll have to use a 67-up throttle assembly.
A donor section of 67-up A/C firewall will help simplify things as well.
 
This is certainly not a cheap alternative but it is a reasonable solution:

Complete Mopar A-Body Air Conditioning Systems | A-Body AC Systems
There are aftermarket hotrod type heat and a/c units out there too. The factory unit for pre 73 had a push button controller, a overly complex water control valve, and other components that did not withstand the test of time. Factor in its R-12, compressor, etc.., and a all new modern unit could cost less in the long run.
 
I have done quite a bit of research on adding factory AC to my Dart wagon and it’s not as easy as adding the components. They do require the early A cable operated pedal setup found in all V8s AND slants with factory AC. I guess you could adapt the 67-later pedal but that requires modifying the firewall. The factory early A cable setup is a bolt-in. The firewall between non-AC and AC are different - besides all the mounting holes for the underdash units, the heater opening is larger to accommodate the larger blower motor plus the wiring bulkhead opening was changed from horizontal to vertical and moved a bit towards the driver’s side and up a bit due to the underdash components. The early A is space-challenged in the engine compartment. So they used a horizontal drier mounted on top of the passenger inner fender. It seemed One of the hardest parts to find is the heater/AC dash bezel for a 65 Dart.

Out of 324487 slant and V8 65 Darts made in 65, only 21320 came equipped with the factory integrated AC system - about 6% of the total production. I suspect 66’s had a similar production as did the Valiant and Barracuda. They are out there - I have a couple of systems myself. I cut the non-AC firewall out and added the correct AC firewall to eliminate problems bolting everything up. I have swapped my dash from the 65 Dart to a 66 Barracuda with the factory heater/AC bezel I found years ago. If you want more info, drop me a PM.
 
It can be done, but you'll have to use a 67-up throttle assembly.
A donor section of 67-up A/C firewall will help simplify things as well.
What's important about the throttle assembly. I have to change mine up any ways due to the Offy intake and 4bbl carb. Why does it need to be changed based on AC?
 
There are aftermarket hotrod type heat and a/c units out there too. The factory unit for pre 73 had a push button controller, a overly complex water control valve, and other components that did not withstand the test of time. Factor in its R-12, compressor, etc.., and a all new modern unit could cost less in the long run.
Not an AC expert, but shouldn't I be able to convert the R-12 to 134a. Since I have to make my own AC lines, I can control what fittings I use, VIA R-12 fitting on the end that connects to the unit in the dash and 134a fittings to connect to a new dryer/condensor and compressor. Or is this a huge no-no?
 
Not an AC expert, but shouldn't I be able to convert the R-12 to 134a. Since I have to make my own AC lines, I can control what fittings I use, VIA R-12 fitting on the end that connects to the unit in the dash and 134a fittings to connect to a new dryer/condensor and compressor. Or is this a huge no-no?
Sure. I just tossed that in with all those other short comings to tip the scale.
 
Not an AC expert, but shouldn't I be able to convert the R-12 to 134a. Since I have to make my own AC lines, I can control what fittings I use, VIA R-12 fitting on the end that connects to the unit in the dash and 134a fittings to connect to a new dryer/condensor and compressor. Or is this a huge no-no?

Use a full sized Sanden style compressor, a multi pass R-134 style condenser with a receiver dryer and then install the Vintage Air Gen 5 evaporator(they make smaller units too) and electronic control in the dash where the stock heater controls go.

*Be sure to upgrade your electrical system including adding a higher output at idle, dual field alternator, bypassing the Amp gauge, up-sizing the power feed from the alternator and the battery and use relays to keep any higher amp load from passing through the bulkhead connector, which you should clean and seal with dielectric grease.

They don't make a kit for the early A-bodies, but you can retrofit the in-car part easily. Since you can make you own hoses and select you own fittings, you should have that part down. The underhood portion of the system is easy to bolt on.

They will send you a mock-up kit to verify it will fit under the dash. I put mine in there and it fit perfectly , but it is a '68.

This is how I did my '68. The condensers are different for the R-134, as they make the 134 pass through the condenser multiple times on the way out.

There should be retrofit bracket kits available to install the smaller and much more efficient Sanden style compressor on your motor.

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You didn't tell us what engine it has. Most (all?) w/ the floor shifter had a 273, which is easier since same as later small blocks. Your engine bay is 1" narrower, but shouldn't matter. If a slant, there is a long post on options. The factory AC climate box isn't a good choice since those cars had a different firewall. An after-market behind-dash unit seems better.
 
You didn't tell us what engine it has. Most (all?) w/ the floor shifter had a 273, which is easier since same as later small blocks. Your engine bay is 1" narrower, but shouldn't matter. If a slant, there is a long post on options. The factory AC climate box isn't a good choice since those cars had a different firewall. An after-market behind-dash unit seems better.
It is a /6 and Dartman has given me a lot of info and pictures on what to expect on the process of going for the factory install. Mostly, I'm hunting that all illusive dash bezel. Without it, the whole thing is a bust for me. He has introduced me to a second option which I'm interested in as well.
 
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