Dash Lights, Carb, Radiator issues

-

Prince V

Active Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2017
Messages
33
Reaction score
12
Location
Indiana
Hi Everyone. I'm new to this forum. I heard about it and checked it out. You all are great and I think its refreshing to find such helpful people! I hope I can help some of you at some point as I'm a custom painter of autos and motorcycles and built several choppers and owned so many Mopars I lost count long ago but I will need some help with this one because when I got it I knew it was not quite complete. I live in Indiana and have just acquired a 1966 Valiant 100 2 door post with a 225 and 3 on the tree from California. It hasn't ran in a long time I'm guessing. The previous owner did not know much about it. He got it 3 years ago to make a drag car out of it and never got around to it. I'm leaving it stock so when it finally got here I looked everything over, topped off the fluids, put fresh gas in it, tightened up anything I found loose, put a fresh battery in it and bam! I was so happy I got it running! Then I was even more shocked that when I pushed the clutch in and put it in gear it moved! lol. I disconnected the battery, cleaned the fuse box, put new fuses in etc. and one by one got all the lights and gauges to work with the exception of the dash lights that I'm still trying to figure out. I don't see how all the lights can be out at once so I'm ruling out bulbs for now. So that is one of my problems I'm working on. Also what I mean by I bought it not quite complete means that the radiator and fan were gone and someone took the choke thermostat and rod off and its gone along with the choke return and put a manual choke cable on it. So my next question if anyone knows what size radiator did it have? a 19 inch or a 22 inch? I think both will go in there. I measured the opening and its 23 1/2 inches. Any suggestions on the best place to purchase one once the size is established. I was thinking the 22 inch would do a better job cooling but I'm not sure. I want a stock type radiator. My last question for now is I want to get a new carb for it and put the proper choke stuff back on. Its a tough one to find. The tag is gone but I've been told it is a Carter #5-565. Its a single barrel. Anyone have any idea where I an get one? I want to replace it because looks like someone rebuilt it and stripped the lower housing threaded hole where the main brass gas line goes in with the needle and seat on top of messing with the choke stuff so I just want new. The motor sounds very strong and I know it would run so good with a new carb or a re-manufactured if its done by a reputable source. Thank you so much for reading this and if you can help me I would deeply appreciate it. This forum is a wealth of information and such nice people and so glad I have the opportunity to join.
 
These Mopar dash lights are a bit of a "trick."

The circuit path is as follows:

(First of all the headlight switch has TWO separate power sources, one UNFUSED power from the ammeter circuit ONLY for the headlights. The second comes from the TAIL / PARK circuit fuse

That last power goes through the switch (in park or headlight position) out the DASH DIMMER CONTROL on a tan wire and down TO the INST fuse in the fuse panel. Then the dash lighting is distributed on ORANGE wiring. So start by checking in the fuse panel, while making sure the tail/ park lights work

Bear in mind the INST fuse is ONLY HOT with the light switch in "park" or headlights and the tail circuit working, AND with the dash dimmer control rotated "to the left."

Also stop over to MyMopar.com and download yourself a free service manual, as well as an aftermarket diagram. Bear in mind those diagrams are not always as detailed or complete as the factory ones in the manual
 
Most common fault with illumination is the dimmer rheostat in the headlight switch ( turn the knob to adjust brightness ). There should be other lamps on this orange wire circuit ( radio dial at least ). If all are inop the rheostat is suspect. If some work some don't, the rheostat is good. And of course the inst' panel has to be chassis grounded for these lights to work. You mentioned working on gauges so I cant know if the panel is fully installed or dangling from the harness connectors.
 
These Mopar dash lights are a bit of a "trick."

The circuit path is as follows:

(First of all the headlight switch has TWO separate power sources, one UNFUSED power from the ammeter circuit ONLY for the headlights. The second comes from the TAIL / PARK circuit fuse

That last power goes through the switch (in park or headlight position) out the DASH DIMMER CONTROL on a tan wire and down TO the INST fuse in the fuse panel. Then the dash lighting is distributed on ORANGE wiring. So start by checking in the fuse panel, while making sure the tail/ park lights work

Bear in mind the INST fuse is ONLY HOT with the light switch in "park" or headlights and the tail circuit working, AND with the dash dimmer control rotated "to the left."

Also stop over to MyMopar.com and download yourself a free service manual, as well as an aftermarket diagram. Bear in mind those diagrams are not always as detailed or complete as the factory ones in the manual
Thank you so much for the great info! This should keep me busy for awhile! I should mention that everything in tack, I didn't take the gauges out. They just started working. I also should of mentioned that I suspect the dimmer switch on the headlight knob because it will not turn the interior light on by turning it but if I open the door the interior light goes on.
 
Most common fault with illumination is the dimmer rheostat in the headlight switch ( turn the knob to adjust brightness ). There should be other lamps on this orange wire circuit ( radio dial at least ). If all are inop the rheostat is suspect. If some work some don't, the rheostat is good. And of course the inst' panel has to be chassis grounded for these lights to work. You mentioned working on gauges so I cant know if the panel is fully installed or dangling from the harness connectors.
Yes! Maybe that is the problem because when I open the door the interior light goes on but when I shut the door and turn the headlight knob the interior light does not go on. So do I replace the whole switch or is the dimmer rheostat a separate part? I haven't got that far into it yet.
 
Yes! Maybe that is the problem because when I open the door the interior light goes on but when I shut the door and turn the headlight knob the interior light does not go on. So do I replace the whole switch or is the dimmer rheostat a separate part? I haven't got that far into it yet.
Also the dash panel is still in place. I didn't take it out. None of the dash lights work at all except the little bright light indicator that I don't believe is on the same circuit.
 
Get the books in this thread. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. "5-565" is not your carburetor type number, that's a casting number from one of the pieces. No dash lights could easily be a complete collection of burned-out dash bulbs, could also be a faulty rheostat in the headlight switch, and could also indicate that your taillights are faulty (they're on the same fuse to provide a warning to the driver that something's wrong/invisible from the rear). If it's the headlamp switch, the whole switch gets replaced. Market's full of Chinese garbage parts these days; familiarize yourself with Old Car Parts Northwest

Original radiator was a 19" with a wide left bracket unless the car was ordered with heavy-duty cooling or a trailer-tow package or factory A/C or Clean Air Package, then 22". V8 cars got 22" radiators, but the hose fittings aren't located where needed for a Slant motor.

Eventually you'll also want to read this post.
 
Get the books in this thread. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. "5-565" is not your carburetor type number, that's a casting number from one of the pieces. No dash lights could easily be a complete collection of burned-out dash bulbs, could also be a faulty rheostat in the headlight switch, and could also indicate that your taillights are faulty (they're on the same fuse to provide a warning to the driver that something's wrong/invisible from the rear). If it's the headlamp switch, the whole switch gets replaced. Market's full of Chinese garbage parts these days; familiarize yourself with Old Car Parts Northwest

Original radiator was a 19" with a wide left bracket unless the car was ordered with heavy-duty cooling or a trailer-tow package or factory A/C or Clean Air Package, then 22". V8 cars got 22" radiators, but the hose fittings aren't located where needed for a Slant motor.

Eventually you'll also want to read this post.
Get the books in this thread. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. "5-565" is not your carburetor type number, that's a casting number from one of the pieces. No dash lights could easily be a complete collection of burned-out dash bulbs, could also be a faulty rheostat in the headlight switch, and could also indicate that your taillights are faulty (they're on the same fuse to provide a warning to the driver that something's wrong/invisible from the rear). If it's the headlamp switch, the whole switch gets replaced. Market's full of Chinese garbage parts these days; familiarize yourself with Old Car Parts Northwest

Original radiator was a 19" with a wide left bracket unless the car was ordered with heavy-duty cooling or a trailer-tow package or factory A/C or Clean Air Package, then 22". V8 cars got 22" radiators, but the hose fittings aren't located where needed for a Slant motor.

Eventually you'll also want to read this post.
Thanks for the great info Slantsixdan. What exactly is the model of my carb then? Any idea where to get a good one? And thank you for clearing the radiator issue up. I was told and read so many things that were not consistent. I wasn't sure if it was 19 or 22. About the dash lights. I'm thinking of getting a light switch because all the lights work on the car. I put all new fuses in. The dimmer switch does not turn on the interior light when I turn it but it works when I open the door. I believe the dash lights and the dome light are connected. Really appreciate all the great info and thank you for reading that long post. I will look at all the threads you sent!

Thanks,
Bryan
 
Impossible to tell what exact carb you have without the tag, but it is a Carter BBS of one kind or another. Ordering a kit for a Carter BBS type 3678 will get you the right kit to rebuild your carb. I like the kits from www.daytonaparts.com because they come with an improved-design inlet needle/seat. However, they (like all other kits today) don't come with a usable float gauge—just a useless strip-of-paper ruler. See here. As far as finding a good whole carb, that is very difficult any more, especially for the pre-'67 cars. "Remanufactured" carbs are junk, see here. I used to have a wall shelf full of new carbs…all sold now, except the odd one I occasionally come across while cleaning up another area of the garage or basement. None presently in hand.

If there's an electrical problem, like a short circuit that blows a fuse, putting in new fuses won't solve it.
 
Impossible to tell what exact carb you have without the tag, but it is a Carter BBS of one kind or another. Ordering a kit for a Carter BBS type 3678 will get you the right kit to rebuild your carb. I like the kits from www.daytonaparts.com because they come with an improved-design inlet needle/seat. However, they (like all other kits today) don't come with a usable float gauge—just a useless strip-of-paper ruler. See here. As far as finding a good whole carb, that is very difficult any more, especially for the pre-'67 cars. "Remanufactured" carbs are junk, see here. I used to have a wall shelf full of new carbs…all sold now, except the odd one I occasionally come across while cleaning up another area of the garage or basement. None presently in hand.

If there's an electrical problem, like a short circuit that blows a fuse, putting in new fuses won't solve it.
Ok thanks again! I may have to just rebuild it but I still will need a lower case because someone stripped the hole in the lower carb case in front where the main gas line goes in with the needle and seat. Really appreciate all the info and links! About the fuses...None were blown. One was missing. There was some corrosion on the fuses and a little bit on the fuse box where they clip in so I disconnected the battery, cleaned the fuse box and put in new fuses.
 
I'm having a problem where my dash lights are always on no matter what, including the turn indicator lights.... is this related at all?? Checked: weldible link, fusible link, shorts, etc. When I jiggle the harness just the right hand side blinker flickers.
 
-
Back
Top