72 Demon slanty-to-340 Resto
Since I forgot to carry it over from the last thread, I'm gonna make a quick list of parts I'm after so far. Something to keep me focused on til a bodywork project gets underway. Feel free to comment (within reason, the fallback on asking opinions is apparently no two can quite agree on something)
- 340 block + k-member - no known crate engines made, so I gotta find out where to look for one that might be lurking in my state (some people thought I should just get a 408 stroker block, forgetting I wanted to keep to small block size/weight). If finding a k-member proves unsuccessful, QA1 makes a tubular one I can fall back on QA1 52313: Tubular K-Member 1967-72 Mopar A-Body | JEGS
- T56 or Passon A855 trans
- Since I didn't grow up with the familiarity of tuning carbs, and don't hold any stigma towards EFI, that's the way I'm going Edelbrock 32530: Pro-Flo 3 EFI System Small Block Chrysler | JEGS This set looks nifty, but isn't the only one I'm considering. Even with the cost of distributor, intake, throttle body, ECU and efi necessities considered, it's still spendy. In the last thread a few noted the intake is single plane and said that I shouldn't use a single plane, but they forgot the little fact that EFI doesn't play nice with dual planes. The one luxury a carb has over EFI.
- Gotta have a nice light set of cylinder heads Edelbrock 60775: Performer RPM Cylinder Head for Small Block Chrysler | JEGS
- Cam choice? Thoughts on how this will work with the intake? 20-811-9 - Xtreme Energy™ Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller Camshafts I had some difficulty in the last thread getting thoughts on this one, responses kept trailing off to "why don't you just get a stroker setup" instead of addressing my question. I know that heads, intake and cam pairings greatly affect flow but I'm still green on proper pairings (I at least know the cam won't exceed max valve lift). If I could get thoughts on this intake/head/cam pairing instead of "why don't you just get a stroker", I'd appreciate it.
- I had a header choice in the last thread but someone said they wouldn't fit. Anybody have a set to recommend?
- Stock radiator is GACKED, gonna need a new one Champion Cooling Systems CC526: All-Aluminum Radiator 1970-1972 Plymouth Duster & Dodge Dart | JEGS and while I'm at it I figure I'd go with electric fans to get with the times and free up some hp while I'm at it Flex-a-lite 180: Black Magic X-Treme Electric Puller Fan Includes adjustable thermostat controller | JEGS They had an "easy set" with radiator and electric fan and all hardware, but that fan pulled fewer cfms and pulled more amp draw. I just copied down the extra hardware bits separately.
- It has a 7.25" rear, no good, so gonna search every yard in the state if I have to for a proper width 8.25" or 8.75". I'll get a limited slip and 3.55 gears for it to swap in.
- With the electric fan and efi system drawing additional power, will an upgrade alternator be a must?
- It was greatly recommended I get subframe connectors
- Torsion bars look like they could do with replacement too. What size should I be going with?
- The EFI system will demand a high pressure fuel system, but there are a couple routes I can go with that
- I haven't given much thought to clutch, have I? Centerforce KDF693963: DF COMPLETE CLUTCH KIT | JEGS just throwing an option out there. Also may go hydro clutch if not already there.
Quite the shopping list. Good thing I got time to space it out. I'll definitely look to save money where I can, but if it must cost more to get it done right the first time then so be it. A well-built, small block car with some pounds dropped in the front end and won't mind a few corners (that's why I don't wanna "just get a stroker" and tack on all that extra iron on the front).
Most of this makes a lot of sense to me, except the whole bit about the stroker. I think you might misunderstand something here. A 408 stroker is just a small block 360 with a 4" crank. Going to a 408 stroker won't add any weight at all, usually the stroker rotating kits end up being lighter than stock small block rotating assemblies. The pistons and rods are lighter for sure. So, the overall weight of the engine shouldn't be any different than a 340 or 360 small block. As for the 340, having built one and paid for one I wouldn't bother again, the 360's are much easier to find and a lot cheaper usually. Since nothing you do will be matching numbers I wouldn't spend the extra cash for a 340 block.
For the radiator, I think I mentioned this before, I would go straight to a 26" 3 core and run the Ford contour set up. This thread has links to both my build and goldduster318's pdf on the Contour install
Mopar Performance 360/380 running pretty hot. The thing is that black magic fan you have linked costs almost twice as much as the Contour fans, only has one speed, and only flows 3300 cfm. That would probably work, but the contour fans are OE proven parts that flow 3,500 and 5000 cfm (low and high speed) and cost less to boot.
For any electric fan set up capable of running stand alone I would say you should get a 100 amp alternator at the minimum. That's what I run, and it works well with my set up. I think the contour fans pull almost 40 amps at start up, so, even a stock 60 amp alternator would be pretty iffy.
Torsion bars I'd go with at least PST's 1.03's, if you're planning a more serious handling car Firm Feel's 1.06's or 1.12's (which is what I run) work well too. And you'll need Bilstein RCD's or Hotchkis shocks for any of those unless you hate your dental fillings and lumbar disks.
You absolutely should install subframe connectors at the minimum. Torque boxes would be very beneficial as well. And if you're looking at a handling car, some kind of foward supports (J bars or US Cartool inner fender supports) and a radiator support brace.
Doug's D453 headers will fit, so will TTI's, and I wouldn't bother spending the money on anything else. Those are both above the steering link, the other designs have tubes below the steering links and that isn't going to last on a lowered car. And they're not cheap enough to warrant buying a set to see if you smash them flat, most of them are more than half as much as the Doug's anyway, better to just do it right the first time.
I wouldn't worry about the clutch until you decide for sure on the transmission, because that will change.
Just my .02.
