A833OD inspection results... thoughts?

I wouldn't be overly concerned about the pointing on the clutch teeth, especially about those on the input gear, as by the time you get to selecting it, you'll be up to cruising speed and will hardly need them. The real question is how did they get to look like that; and the answer is cuz the brass quit working.
So now the question is:the brass that is currently in there, is it the quiter, or was it replaced all those years ago?
There is no real way to tell once the parts are all oiled up.So, you have a decision to make; either run it and find out, or strip it down and clean it all up, and then test the gription of the brass on the cone.
If you tear it down,you can easily re-point the teeth with a die-grinder.
Also if you tear it down,you can re-point the teeth on the slider, as may be required.
Also once the bearings are washed and dried you can check them for noise and roughness, and wear.
And finally, you can pinpoint the cause of the scraping noise.Which I'd guess is surface rust in the back bearing.
I don't like RnR-ing those brutes more often than I need to so,I'd be tearing it down.
If you put that trans behind a 360, be advised to take it easy going into overdrive. I stripped all the teeth of two of them......by forgetting that. And when the teeth start flying around in there, there's no telling where they will end up. The cluster in that box is a pretty tight fit in certain spots, and so maybe the teeth end up in a pocket where they can lay harmlessly, but .......probably not. I bought a couple of boxes at swap meets, for spares.
Also if you tear it down, and again for a 360; I recommend to install a steel bushing at the cluster-pin front location, to give the input gear a chance to survive. Hyup, I stripped one of those as well.
Tearing it apart takes no special tools and only requires about 10 minutes. Well unless you don't have a snapring plier. And a press to remove the back bearing.