Won't go into first when warm/Reverse Grind when warm
I adjusted the clutch and same issue. What could cause a warped disc?
On the Street, the CFII is extremely robust. I have over 100,000miles on my PP, and I put about 30,000 hard hard miles on the disc, and it never complained. This behind my 400hp 367. I actually pulled it out cuz it was too instant, and I kept on breaking stuff behind it. I wanted, and needed something a lil softer. If your 383 is under 400hp, and your're on street tires, then I really doubt the disc is warped.
When you start it up warm in gear and the pedal fully depressed, does the car slightly lurch forward? Do you have to step on the brake to keep it from creeping ahead? If either is a yes, then that is the proof that the clutch is dragging. If you can't solve it with clutch departure at .080, then the trans should come down; unless you have a problem with the departure NOT staying at .080, like if something between the pedal and the TOB is moving, like Shenango says. Or say the Z-bar is sliding over, or IDK, like maybe the fork is not properly engaged on the TOB, or, wild-card; you have the wrong pedal-ratio, and you're not getting adequate departure. That is why I keep on harping on departure rather than freeplay.
If you do take it down, be sure to make the crank centerline and the trans centerline on the same axis, as already mentioned, by shifting the bellhouse. You will need a Dial-Indicator for this with a magnetic base.
Also, before the trans comes down, check your crank end-play; maybe the thrust bearing is cooked. I don't think it is but,but you never know.Testing just rules it out.
