Big Block Steering Mods

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Jason65

65Dart
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I am gathering together my parts for my 383 conversion. I have the headman headers and have purchased this steering universal joint . It is the Borgeson .75 x 36 spline by .75 smooth bore.
I did a quick test fit on a 65 steering shaft and it seems like the smoth bore will be a little small, splined side is good.
Are the 67 and 65 steering shafts the same size? On first inspection I don’t know if I’m going to gain any clearance with this universal as it appears to be about the same size as the factory connection
I think I might try the sweet manufacturing universal as it appears to be narrower.
Is there a thread started that shows how to cut back the steering column collar?
Is there a different centre link on the 6 cylinder cars vs the V8.? Also does the transmission crossmember need to be notched or are they ready for the dual exhaust?


Thanks

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What exactly do you mean by, "seems like the smooth bore will be a little small"??? If it's just a few thousandths you easily file down the round shaft.

Treblig
 
What exactly do you mean by, "seems like the smooth bore will be a little small"??? If it's just a few thousandths you easily file down the round shaft.

Treblig
Thanks, That what I was wondering. I was test fitting it on a 65 shaft. Have you used this joint before?
 
No but I'm a machinist and rework stuff all the time to make things fit together besides, the steering shaft rotates a very low speed. So as long as you get a close fit it doesn't matter if it's dead on center. That's why I said you could file the shaft down to make the coupling fit but you can only do that if it only needs a few thousandths and your careful. There's also a technique to keeping something round as you file on it.

Treblig
 
I had to turn down my steering shaft to get this part to fit.
 
I had to turn down my steering shaft to get this part to fit.
Thanks, That's what I was thinking. Would it be easier to enlarge the universal joint?
Did you end up welding it on or pin it?
My car was a factory 6cyl, Do I need a V-8 steering link?
Thanks for your help.
 
Thanks, That's what I was thinking. Would it be easier to enlarge the universal joint?
Did you end up welding it on or pin it?
My car was a factory 6cyl, Do I need a V-8 steering link?
Thanks for your help.
I always prefer to use the split joint (U-joint) on round shafts (see below). You have to cut/grind or file a short slot on the outside of the shaft for the bolts to snake through but it much safer than welding or pinning. You can order joints in any combination from borgeson. But that's just me!!
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treblig
 
Thanks, That's what I was thinking. Would it be easier to enlarge the universal joint?
Did you end up welding it on or pin it?
My car was a factory 6cyl, Do I need a V-8 steering link?
Thanks for your help.

i pinned it on. I have to say though that, the other day when i had to maneuver the car without the car running, the shaft broke right where i turned it down (on the shoulder where it reduces in sized to go into the universal joint.) It was odd to me because it seems like the main part of the shaft is rotating around a the smaller shaft that goes into the universal joint attaching to the borgeson box. I thought these shafts were one solid piece but to my untrained eye it looks like they are two pieces with one sliding into the other.:BangHead:
 



i am thinking of going with a collapsible shaft steering setup. Any suggestions?
 
It's hard to tell but it looks like you turned/cut the shaft down so much that it was too thin to handle the torque. It also looks like there's a "floating" rod/shaft inside the steering shaft otherwise the two pieces would separate when you turn the shaft??
Many companies make straight steering shaft couplers. I would cut the original shaft off (where it is too small) and attach one of these couplers. Like I said before I prefer the "split/pinch" type couplers because they won't fail even if the bolt comes loose because the bolt goes through a slot/groove in the shaft. That's the way the factory did it on many cars for safety reasons.

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Companies (borgeson) also make universal type couplers. Your problem is that too much was removed from the original shaft making it weak. You always want to avoid removing too much from the original shaft. Wish I was there so I could see it for myself and help you???

Treblig
 
FYI, you can't just stick a coupler on a smooth round shaft and expect it to hold. Even if you put 3 or 4 set screws in it....it might hold for a few miles but it will fail in the end. The shaft has to have splines, flats or a groove/slot or it could be welded if you're a certified welder??

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Good Luck and be careful.

treblig
 
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