After mkt Rallye wheels?

I have a pair of 15 x 8 WVs for KHers, in a bs of about 5.25 . Here are my experiences;
This bs will tuck the 15s in tight to where the rims just hit the upper BJs at full droop. I shaved the BJs for clearance.I could not run regular wheel-weights. You could instead,run thin spacers. I opted not to.
At my lowered ride-height, those 245/50s did snag the bottom front corners of the fenders on my 68 Barracuda; I had to bring out the tinsnips.
IIRC they just touched the strut-rods at full lock. Depending on your caster, they might also rub on the frame at full lock, at full compression. They will rotate up into the tub without having to move the fender outboard.
They maintain the scrub radius as near as is possible to factory.
Sticky 245s will follow ruts with these rims when the pressure is adjusted for full contact across the tread-face, and the camber set to about .6*.
You better check the wear pattern fairly often as just a bit of wrong toe will eat the rubber pretty quick.
They are about as tight a fit as you can make them, without modding the fenders.
As a DD, I ran the sticky 245s bald in less than10 weeks, and retired those rims with maybe 4000 miles on them,tops.
That FormulaS sure zipped around the turns tho, and she sure looked good with 245s up front. But it was an expensive experiment,to say the least ; more than 15cents a mile.
I went back to 235/60-14s on 7.5aluminums, and sorta slowed down some. Now it occasionally skates over a bit when I go in a lil hot,lol. I just put it on the bump-stops, lay on the gas, and slide on thru. 235BFGs are hard as can be and they only stick in the first summer. After that they are sliders. But they do last forever.
My S is a streeter; it doesn't have to be fast, it just has to look fast,lol.

Oh,and one more very important thing; If you get used to the stopping power of sticky 245s, well then, you better relearn to stop with BFG 235s, cuz you're in for a shocker.