71 LA 340 timings moved!! how?? looking for help
And this is with the initial set "where?" Have you pulled the dist. apart? Broken advance spring? PLEASE lose the word "dizzy." Thank you very much
Sorry.. sadly used to the UK language hence the Dist wording you don't like, bit like boot is trunk, bonnet is hood, Motorway is freeway, etc etc but I do try lol!!
Maybe I'm confused I thought initial timing was what I'm reading off the crank pulley at idle with timing light, which is 31 at idle (950rpm) is this not the initial? then there is the max advance (when weights and springs have done there thing? where I've seen up to 50.
But get this... just put back on the old dist cap and rotor arm and it started much easier, and it idled quicker without stalling (I don't have any choke at all, flap removed so got the odd splutter for first 60 seconds) (the old cap and arm had only covered 500 miles but changed it anyway when I serviced her)
Anyway checked timing again which I saw the 31 at 950rpm, revved it up all roughly the same and still seeing 50 when quickly revved to 4k ish but its much more revvy and seems to run stronger... whe nI say revvy I can stab the gas real quick hit 3k and back down to idle in around 2 seconds and there is now no hesitation or miss at all.......
So, Do I leave it as is? it does have a rather extensive build, high compression ratio, 418 stroker, cam is Comp cam XE274H 242 duration @.50 .492 lift and I did not build it so really don't know and sadly I don't know any tuners local that I would trust to even know what they are doing.
I have seen the odd muscle car running high advance but I know it don't make it right, or do I wind it back and see? it has way to much power anyway for the tiny 275/60/15 BF Goodrich its running lol!! I'm tubbed and relocated leaf springs so can run bigger but only 8.5" wide Rallye wheels and budget just will not allow new wheels and tires as need to change gearing and dumb 3500 stall converter and that's already costly..
