340 in a 65 Dart, TTI HEADERS, H exhaust

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Any further comments on using headers on the 340 in my 65 Dart restoration. TTI is where I am headed with their H exhaust. Any comments? Any advice? Any tips? Any anything to put me in the right direction....at least I think I am going the right way, buy have not ordered them yet....but soon. Any help before I order the parts would be helpful. Other people's experience is always the very best guide. Never done this exhaust before. Thanks. Old Dart 66
 
72Dart6pack said:
Are you going 3 inch fenderwell?
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When you say fenderwell, does that mean cutting through the inner fender? If so, then no, I will not be cutting through the inner fender. It is my understanding that the TTI headers will be/are designed to be able to reach around the PS gear and get past the starter...using a mini starter. Just wanted to be sure I am not missing anything before I place the order. Actually, trying to find someone who has used TTI's
setup before I place the order. Thanks. Old Dart 66
 
Contrary to what many people will tell you under chassis headers in and early a body is not that hard. I have used the Dougs headers and with a bit of patience they can be installed without any problems. My applications have been in 4 speed cars with power steering with no fitment issues at all. Only downside is and its not a huge issue depending on what your trying to do with the car is they only have a 2 1/2" collector. I have a lightweight newer Mopar starter and also run 1.14 torsion bars through the left side, I do have a torque strap holding the engine down. I have never installed a set of TTI headers in an early a body but have seen many installed and they look like a quality set as well as all their parts are in my opinion. They take a slightly different route than the Dougs so I'm not sure if there are any fitment issues, I had one guy tell me he had to make a small adjustment.
 
Thanks. Any photos on the Doug's? Appreciate the input. Old Dart 66
 
gold66cuda said:
I do have some pictures but not available to me at this time, I will post some tomorrow night.
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Thanks, looking forward to it. Clearance around the PS gear in particular if that photo would be available. Appreciate your time. Old Dart 66
 
One thing you might want to do is clearance the passenger side structural so the pipe will lay up to the floor pan as it does on the drivers side; early "A"s did not come with duel exhausts from the factory, so pipe lay out on passenger side needs help. You can use the tranny cross member as a template as to how to cut; flip it around, bolt it in place, scribe a line on the structural, sawzall, angle grinder with cut off wheel, plasma torch to cut (what ever you have), weld a piece of flat stock in to cover hole, grind welds smooth.
 
Yep, I thank you for that info. Using a template from one side to the other on the crossmember. I was thinking about using a piece of steel pipe, cut to length, sawed in half, and welding it in place to accomodate the dual exhaust. Will that be all I need for adjustments for the dual exhaust in the 65? Thanks for the input. A small bit of my time, and with help from many, the car will get done. Old Dart 66
 
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Old Dart 66 said:
Thanks, looking forward to it. Clearance around the PS gear in particular if that photo would be available. Appreciate your time. Old Dart 66
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No Problem, these are Dougs in a 1966 Barracuda, exactly the same as any 1965 abody. The steering box in the picture is the smaller Borgeson box but the stock box was in the car for 15 years before that box and no fitment issues with that at all. The finish on these is almost 20 years old, they are a quality product!
 
You bet on your help. Was considering TTI with their H exhaust. Yours look really nice. I still have time before I make a decision and I am ready to order. Great help....especially the photos. Much thanks. Old Dart 66
 
gold66cuda said:
Contrary to what many people will tell you under chassis headers in and early a body is not that hard. I have used the Dougs headers and with a bit of patience they can be installed without any problems. My applications have been in 4 speed cars with power steering with no fitment issues at all. Only downside is and its not a huge issue depending on what your trying to do with the car is they only have a 2 1/2" collector. I have a lightweight newer Mopar starter and also run 1.14 torsion bars through the left side, I do have a torque strap holding the engine down. I have never installed a set of TTI headers in an early a body but have seen many installed and they look like a quality set as well as all their parts are in my opinion. They take a slightly different route than the Dougs so I'm not sure if there are any fitment issues, I had one guy tell me he had to make a small adjustment.
Click to expand...




What size clutch are you using, the original 9 or the 10.5 inch?
Thnks
 
gold66cuda said:
I'm using a 10.95 clutch in a 10.5 bell housing. The Doug's I have fit awesome , I have no complaints about them.
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Thanks for the reply. Do you recall the clutch fork and z bar that you used ? I am working on putting dougs with the 10.5 bellhousing in my 64. Just curious what worked and if you had to modify anything to get it to work.
 
CCHHAARRGGER! said:
Thanks for the reply. Do you recall the clutch fork and z bar that you used ? I am working on putting dougs with the 10.5 bellhousing in my 64. Just curious what worked and if you had to modify anything to get it to work.
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I originally used a modified stock bracket but it wasn't smooth with the 833 and made a bit of noise from the cross shaft bushings when depressing the clutch. When I upgraded to the Passon 855 and McLeod 10.95 diaphragm clutch I purchased a kit from Brewers that is specific to adding the 10.5 bell in the narrow early a bodies, I believe it is a mix of A and C body pieces, has the fork and a cross shaft and all the bits to make it a bolt in, it works well, everything lines up and its smooth and quiet.
 
gold66cuda said:
I originally used a modified stock bracket but it wasn't smooth with the 833 and made a bit of noise from the cross shaft bushings when depressing the clutch. When I upgraded to the Passon 855 and McLeod 10.95 diaphragm clutch I purchased a kit from Brewers that is specific to adding the 10.5 bell in the narrow early a bodies, I believe it is a mix of A and C body pieces, has the fork and a cross shaft and all the bits to make it a bolt in, it works well, everything lines up and its smooth and quiet.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I ordered everything from Brewers too . Just waiting to see how it all goes together when it arrives
 
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