Here's how high charging voltage works:
With solid state regulators, they are RARELY the cause of high charging voltage per se
Voltage drop in the harness works like this:
The SENSING terminal of a Mopar regulator is the IGN terminal, the terminal from which the regulator gets it's operating power. This is what "tells" the regulator how much to feed to the battery. It adjusts the charge to keep the IGN terminal at the regulator set point
When warm and normal, that set point is supposed to be 13.8---14.2V. Certainly not lower than 13.5 or so, and certainly not higer than 15 or so
If there is voltage drop in the harness, as with the engine off/ not charging, this is caused by resistance in the entire feed path from battery through all lthe wire terminals, connectors, the ignition switch, ammeter, and so on, until power finally reaches the VR IGN terminal. So if the battery is fully charged at 12.6, and if you read the voltage at the VR at 11.5, there is a 1.2 volt loss between the battery and the VR
WITH THE CAR RUNNING and charging, the VR tries to maintain 13.8--14.2 or nominally 14V at that point where you measured the 11.5. THIS MEANS that when running, and when the VR is maintaining that 14V, THAT 1.1V DROP IS STILL THERE and the BATTERY because it is "1.1V away" from the VR IGN terminal, now is running at 14V +1.1 or 15.1V (example)
A RELATED condition is that this drop MAY NOT BE "stable." That is, a bad connection in the ignition switch or connector, may "arc across" and get "better" with some current through it, or may heat up, arc, and get WORSE!!! This can be one cause of flickering lamps.
