OK, so what steering coupler do I WANT???

replicaracer43 said
No, the factory coupler allows for some angle, and a u joint can be angled more, but the factory coupler also allows a bit of in/out "plunge" to accommodate body and chassis flex. A solid u joint eliminates that feature, and the steering shaft has a c clip on each side of the upper bearing, which is retaind in the column, so any flexibility in the chassis will be transferred right to that small bearing. Not good.

That’s true, and I agree that a solid coupler isn’t ideal. However, remember that the stock steering shaft has a collapsible section in it too, held together with those plastics pins from tha factory. I would bet the guys that have gone to solid couplers would find those pins broken and the steering shaft slipping back and forth at that location some. So, not all the load would likely be transmitted to the bearing. Not how it’s supposed to work, but I bet that would be what happens. The factory coupler moves easier than the collapsible steering shaft so the pins stay intact. Without it, those pins would probably shear at some point and the shaft would slip there.

cudaracer said
Thanks for the info. That makes a lot of sense. I will just rebuild the column and live with the vehicle as is, a flex-flyer that can never be as good as a modern basic car, let alone a performance car.

Well you sure gave up fast. There are ways around dealing with the plunge in the coupler problem. But if you’re not willing to try harder than that maybe you should leave the coupler alone. The coupler itself is not a piece that causes huge problems if it’s rebuilt and in good condition.

clifftt said
What if you have reduced the chassis flex? I have frame connectors welded to my floors. Anyone using a u-joint with frame connectors instead of the original coupler?

You still don’t have zero chassis flex. Reducing the chassis flex with frame connectors doesn’t solve the part that effects the coupler either. The flex from the firewall to the K frame is the issue. So, shock tower to firewall braces like US Cartool makes, or J-bars, would be what you want. That’s a location that the chassis is kinda flexy anyway, because unlike cars with coils springs the suspension loads aren’t carried there in torsion bar cars. So, that area isn’t super stiff in Mopars with torsion bars because it didn’t have to carry a large vertical component of the suspension load.

My solution was a slip joint from a more modern steering shaft design, but it does involve some skilled work to get it done.