340 Cam Kits which ones work with a stock block
Don't know for sure what the TC stall is, I'm assuming what ever came from the factory. Is there a number on the front if I rotate it around I can see ?
Not sure on the ICA, if you are talking Cam c-line it's 114 and Installed C-line it's 112 according to my book.
Negative on the big cam it's the factory stock cam
When I did my compression test I let the gage sit on each cylinder for a good five minutes to see if there was any leakage and the gage barely moved.
The guy I bought the car from told me the car originally had 3:91's sure grip but he swapped them out for 3:23's, sure grip I didn't like the performance at all with the 3:23's so I put a 3:91 Richmond gear set in. That woke it back up, she pulls really good but I think it can be better.
You cannot use a compression tester to do a LD test. The gauge has a little valve in it that prevents the air from leaking out of it until you release it. You could make your own LD tester using the compression tester and a regulator, and a shut-off valve, as I have, but most will find it easier to just get the tool.
As to the TC you can do a stall test. Start with a warmed up ready to rock engine Apply the brakes hard and start bringing the revs up in manual low gear. Watch the tach. When the brakes can no longer hold the car back, at that exact moment capture the rpm reading. That is your brake stall.IIRC the factory stall was around 2350 +/- 100
if your engine is stock and has a stock cam, yet only has an average of 152.5psi cylinder pressure, IMO, something is wrong...... What altitude are you at?
I get about 30ft above sea-level. At 10.5 Scr, your pressure should be up around 165psi. Without this pressure, a bigger hydraulic cam will rapidly lose low-rpm performance. And that will require a higher stall TC to make it fun again. There is almost nothing worse than a poser engine that idles like a funny car but can't hardly get out of it's own way.
So to help you not get into that situation the LD test should be mandatory, and then the brake stall-test would be helpful as well.
BTW, the lackluster performance with the 3.23s supports the idea that the bottom end is already too soft. At 10.5 Scr, and proper pressure,and with the factory TC, she would be a tire-fryer. Any bigger hydraulic cam without an accompanying Scr or stall increase...... is sure to make it worse.
Also; my FSM says that engine should have pressure between 130 and 175 psi, for an average of 152.5..... so you are right on the average. .....But that spec is ridiculously ambiguous, and helps to explain why the broad diversity in 340 performance.
Low-rpm performance hinges on high compression, making or breaking your street combo. If you don't have it, then you have to apply bandaids like the hi-stall or the 3.91s. If you did have it, you can use a lot less stall and a lot less gear.And go further on a gallon of gas,sometimes a lot further.
