wiring harness

good suggestion ,but already got new harness coming ..i will have to get better at my questions when asking for help...if the new harness doesnt work i will try swapping the terminals..thanks for the helpful advise..this site has been a great help thru this process..wiring and reading diagrams are not as easy for some of us but i do understand what your saying ,thanks again sorry for the confusion


I would certainly recommend you go through the new harness BEFORE installing it and make certain it will work. You don't want to end up with french fried plastic

One easy way to protect when looking for shorts would be this:

Get yourself a stop/ tail "junk" socket and an 1157 bulb. You don't want an LED you want something that draws SOME CURRENT. Another great tool is an old headlamp bulb. You wire the bulb in series with the battery ground, so that if "something else" tries to burn something (short) it will simply light up the lamp

The thing about a stop /tail lamp is you can wire it several ways for testing. Put a pigtail on the lamp ground/ shell, now you have three wires:

LOWEST current: Hook with the two lamp wires, and leave the shell unconnected. This wires the test in series with the two lamp filaments

MORE current: Hook to the shell and the tail wire, which is the smaller wattage filament

MORE YET current: Hook to the shell and the stop wire

MOST current: Hook the two filament wires together, and wire the test to the shell on one terminal and the two connected filaments on the other terminal. This puts both bulb filaments in parallel

I used to use this for charging small ---bike----batteries when all I had was a big 10A charger.