Is this reading on the crown of the piston? Tnx
Some random answers to questions as I catch up:
1. This may have been answered, but you won't hone a ridge out of a cylinder.... the hone just won't ride there. You use a ridge reamer. As said, you only take out enough to barely get the ridge out. But if the 318 does not have a ridge in the cylinders, I would definitely try to use that block. The ridge indicates bore wear with all of the taper and out-of-roundness that comes with that.
2. FWIW, the H116CP pistons are made to be stock replacement pistons. You should be OK to put them in there without a rebalance. My data show the stock 360 LA to be 748 grams for piston + pin. I would not re-balance for a low$$, low RPM build. It is not going to fly apart.
3. Cool on the 63 cc's; that is consistent with reports and waht I have been using.
4. Practice a LOT with those bore gauges; I have used the same types for years but it took a long time to get good with them. ANY small angle from straight down the bore will give you large readings. ANY being off the center axis will give small readings.
5. You're going to end up with some bore out-of-roundness and taper. If taper is more than about .003-.004, then the rings will wear out fairly quickly. More than a few thou of our-of-roundness and the cylinder seal will start getting weak. Ring side clearance in the piston grooves will also cause poor seal and rapid ring wear. But this is not a lifetime engine.
6. With your $$ limits, just:
- pull it apart
- clean the bores with ATF
- get out any ridge with a ridge reamer (check the parts stores for loaners)
- hone it
- clean it again with ATF over and over
- clean the ring grooves on the pistons thoroughly (use an old ring broken in half as a tool)
- put in some new cheap rings
- look over the bearings
- get a new timing chain, preferrably with variable keyway on the crank sprocket ($5 from Mancini) so you can advance the cam timing a bit
- and so on
It likely will not run 100% evenly, but that is what you have for the $$