Toe-in is prescribed for a reason. That reason being that when you’re rolling down the road the force of the spinning tires tends to pull out on the steering linkage. That pulls any play in the steering linkage out and allows the tires to toe out some. Which is why a standard alignment calls for a little toe-in, so counter play in the linkage. How much depends on the steering components, these cars usually call for 1/16” to 1/8”. 1/8” seems like a lot, but if the linkage and tie rod ends aren’t super tight it adds up quick.
Now, you set your toe to 0, so, rolling down the road you probably have a small amount of toe out. And that can lead to wandering.
If your goal is drag racing, you ideally want zero toe when you’re going down the track. But, depending on how much play is in your steering system, you may need to have a small amount of toe-in with your static alignment to be at zero when you’re rolling. The tie rod ends on these cars generally have some play, so some toe in will probably help. With heims or a rack and pinion you could run closer to zero on the static. It doesn’t matter as long as you set the toe right for your car.
The rest of your numbers are fine. Your positive caster is ok, more positive caster would also help with the wandering. But +2.5* and 3 isn’t bad at all, that’s pretty much the max for stock UCA’s with offset bushings.