Common dash cluster issues question

FrozenCaveman said

Thanks for the tip on direct-connecting the gauges if needed. Do you have a recommendation on how to connect the wires without butchering the harness? I like the idea of a disconnect terminal for the pigtail to make it easier to remove the cluster. I see the phillips screw location you mention, and I'll take a look at the kick panel location. I've got the trace board sitting here next to me and I found a local radio shop that is willing to repair the pin for me - Sacramento Radio Expo. They've repaired the radios from a couple of my cars, including the Scamp. Very reasonable prices.

Since you mentioned it, what's the best practice for lowering the column to pull the cluster out? My steering box leaked at the input seal and I'm wondering if lowering the column several times to work on the cluster had an impact on it. Having just refurbished the box, I'd hate to damage a seal. For this job, I lowered the two nuts closest to the driver on the column as far as they would go without removing them entirely, and then the one nut near the firewall. I left the column to firewall nuts tightened. Just barely squeaked the cluster out over and to the left of the steering wheel. Previously, I think I fully removed the upper nuts to drop the column even more, but I think that may put a strain on the linkage to the upper steering box shaft.

-John

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On the typical day I wouldn't be back and respond before next morning. Have you ever got a revelation while under the shower? It just occurred to me that if I took my addon ground wire to the screw between heater core tubes where the factories ground wire is, I wouldn't need to remove a kick panel. I likely would need to move the glove box out of my path to that attach point. A little longer wire, tied to a blend door cable? Lots of different ways to do things. Butchering the harness would be necessary. the board contact pins are round, the female terminals are a bit oval shaped. Never was a lot of connection there. Somewhat surprising that the seize up. You would need to change to ring terminals some way if you route directly to gauges. 10-32 nuts and internal toothed washers are available at home depot, etc...
Some of the following doesn't apply to floor shift or manual trans...
I do remove the 3 bolts attaching column to firewall and that allows to column to drop further. scars in the plate show where it was mounted but column can change position lengthwise and a column shift neutral safety switch adjustment can change. Wont start in park :( A factory service manual shows how to set the column length so guts of box coupling are centered. And yes seal distortion can occur. It is possible to R&R that seal working under the hood. You'll need to drive out a split pin, use a pickle fork to get the box coupling off the shaft. Make a small punch mark and drill a small hole in the seals face. A drywall screw will go through, hit the land beneath the seal and draw it out. Please be forewarned... another member attempted this and didn't locate his hole and/or angle screw just right. Drill or screw damaged the perimeter of seal bore in his gearbox. New seal was good at the shaft but leaked at perimeter. I use a air powered offset drill with 1/4 inch chuck and 3/32 drill bit.
One more thing, that bolt on lower right side of upper column support goes into a caged nut. I crossed threaded that dang bolt once. Totally ruined my day. I wont ever carry my air ratchet under the dash again.