Front Suspension Rebuild Issues

Very first thing is go to MyMopar and download a or more than "a" service manual. You may have to settle for Dodge vs Plymouth etc

Then go to this All-Par article and refer to the "skosh chart" ESPECIALLY if you are using radial tires. "The book" specs are for bias ply tires

Turn of the screw: front end alignment for performance...

Be sure to "jounce" the suspension so that it "settles" otherwise the adjustments will not be "true." It is wise to align it, drive it, and recheck settings

The order of alignment, after getting things assembled is

1...Ride height set by the bolts on the underside of the lower arms. Even if you don't want it "stock" you want to look at the bump stops and set height so you have some movement of the suspension between upper and lower bump stops

2....Then you set camber/ caster and you set them together. It is sometimes difficult to get the readings you want as adjustment is limited ESPECIALLY IF YOU did not install the upper offset bushings AND ESPECIALLY if you have power steering which "wants" more caster

The caster you want is "generally" with the upper arm ball joint pointed to the rear. This means you must move the adjuster in the front to move that end of the arm OUT AWAY from the car, and move the rear adjuster so that end of the arm moves IN TOWARDS the car. This tilts the spindle to the rear, for max cast.

HOWEVER that adjustment affects CAMBER. So you must now "give up" a little bit of caster to get the camber you want

3...Last you set the toe. Pay attention to "if" the steering box is centered. The way you do that is "rough" it into toe, and 'walk' the tie rod adjusters on both sides so that the steering wheel is centered while keeping the toe adjusted. This might take "a try or two." Set the toe, go drive it, and see if the wheel stays centered. You may have to "fudge" some on "centered" because on flat vs crowned roads, that migiht change