It’s just the nature of the really large torsion bars. They twist very little with the weight of the car, so they go from fully loaded to completely unloaded in a very short distance on the adjusters. The clocking is then really important, because you basically get what the hex offset gives you.
For example, on my car my adjusters only have like 2-3 thread showing above the adjusters. That’s it. I run a 3/8” tall lower bumpstop and a 2.75” tall upper bumpstop, otherwise the LCA comes off the adjuster at full extension. I have about the same 4-5” of travel as factory, but I had to recenter it around my ride height. At compression the hard parts barely clear the frame, and without the upper bumpstop full extension means the adjusters are completely free.
Hopefully you’ve sent some of these pictures to sway-away, obviously they should know if those bars have the right specs. But the large bars can be tricky for setting ride height. PST messed it up originally with their 1.03” bars, they came with 0 offset and you couldn’t actually get the car to factory ride height, only lowered was an option. They changed the offset after a couple years to what they have now. Since people that run 1.14” bars are usually doing it for AutoX or road racing those cars are all lowered, so that’s how the bars are clocked.
