Car Weight

Just something to consider - Naturally a lighter car should be a faster car. It can be a personal challenge/goal or it can be a necessity to simply out-run an opponent. However, in some cases, it can be beneficial to keep some weight by putting it where it will do the most good - towards the rear of the car.

My last bracket car was a home-built 2x3 frame Challenger that I bought from a friend. Its consistency was improved by adding about 80 lbs in the trunk and the result was more wins despite a slight overall ET loss. My Dart Sport had rules that dictated how much it weighed based on shipping weight for year claimed and the engine HP based on IHRA rules at the time. I claimed the heaviest year Dart Sport - 1975 and lowest HP crate engine - 360/300HP Commando LA which fit J/CM (J/Crate Motor). No fiberglass or lexan allowed but I lightened it as much as I could under the rules, including using a Dart Lite hood and trunk which saved about an additional 25 lbs. Then I added weight as allowed under the rules where it did the most good - the back 1/2 of the car, to bring it over the minimum requirement of 3,530+ lbs with driver.

Race tracks can't always maintain optimal conditions for traction and Mother Nature can make it more difficult with heat and humidity. Weight in the right place can be good insurance. Just install it properly & safely. Consistency wins more races than low ET, particularly in handicap racing. It's a strategy that worked for me.

2017 Green Cove Springs, FL race 3-4.jpg -1.jpg