727 big block trans converter tighten/untighten tricks

AJ/FormS said

a click-type. Put the bolt head to the bottom. Unless your engine has a deep oilpan, there should be lots of room. If not then install the bolts before the starter goes on, and there you got a big ol' hole .

BTW;
You do know that the convertors usually bolt onto the flex-plate in only one of the four positions,right.......
Index it before you put the engine in and save some dinking around time. Do not tighten the bolts until all Four are in, lol, then torque them.

To be honest, having begun wrenching in about 1969, on my cars, I stopped using a torque wrench for everything except three things, many many years ago, namely; headbolts, cambolts, and rocker shaft bolts. My right arm is a calibrated wonder...... lol

Click to expand...

Done the rubber hammer on wrench many times..

I did try access thru starter hole but I have a shim plate? for starter in there and it didn't want to slide out especially with one end over stud. I did mark the flex plate but thanks for the reminder. I hear ya on the calibrated right arm I have one too.
Every time I do converter bolts I think back to my early 20's when I developed and awful loud engine knocking in my 69 buick gs 400 engine. I did one last giant burnout and finished it by stoping right in front of the house on the street. I thought the engine would certainly grenade further but it didn't to my surprise. Cops showed up right after that and of course I denied it but the street had clear burnout marks right to both of my rear tires!

I started pulling the intake and both heads and found nothing obvious for the knocking sound. So I figured to pull the rest of the engine at that point. Found a big old surprise when I dropped the transmission shield down and out dropped a torque converter bolt that had come loose causing all the noise. Things you learn.....